There has been discussion of late on [[Prince Edward Island]] about banning students from using mobile telephones in school; the discussion originated with the PEI Home and School Federation. The rationale? President Wendy Macdonald was quoted by the CBC as explaining:

…parents on P.E.I. have said they’re not comfortable with how quickly young people are using the latest technologies to change the way they communicate with one another.

When I first heard of this decision, I found myself in general agreement — “kids should be concentrating on learning about Magellan and quadrilateral triangles in school, not sending SMS messages to each other,” I said to myself.

But I’ve been thinking about this a lot, especially since we arrived in mobile phone-drenched Portugal, and I now think the decision is wrong-headed.

While parents may be “not comfortable” with the pace of new technologies — and are parents ever comfortable with the pace of new technologies? — these new technologies are here, they’re being used, and they’re being used in places that aren’t Prince Edward Island to a much greater extent than they are on PEI.

Here in Europe you can bank with your mobile, pay parking tickets with your mobile, get travel information, check your email, watch television and edit movies. Mobile devices are a part of everyday life here, and absolutely everyone carries one: I’ve seen them in the hands of kids in grade 7 and in the hands of seniors.

On a visit to the art gallery in Porto last week we saw high school students taking digital pictures of art with their mobile phones. On the train up to Régua this week we sat beside a group of older woman, many of whom were checking their mobiles for text messages from their seats.

If the experience here is any guide — and I’m pretty sure it is — the future is going to involve some sort of mobile device in the hands of everyone most of the time.

While we can debate the merits of this like we debated whether or not the coming of the pocket calculator would result in kids who couldn’t add or subtract, there is an inevitability here that makes it seem rather short-sighted to try and make the future go away because you’re “not comfortable” with it.

Surely if schools have any role at all, it is to shape and guide the use of new technologies. Taking the “prohibition” tack never, ever works with kids; you only have to look at underage binge drinking to understand what pretending to hide something away in a box does for educating responsibility.

So rather than trying to stamp mobile phones out of the classroom, why not make sure that every child has access to one, regardless of income. Build aspects of the curriculum around mobile devices, foster community, harness the power of ubiquitous network access, take advantage of the fact that kids are attracted to the technology to channel its use in positive ways.

I’m pretty sure that whenever parents say that they’re “not comfortable with how quickly young people are using the latest technologies” this should be a call to schools to grab onto whatever the latest technology is and allow their students to fly with it.

In early may, in a rush to get all the bills paid, I mistakenly used my Metro Credit Union web banking system to pay a bill that didn’t exist — I paid down $3000 on a credit card that I’d cancelled earlier in the year. This was completely operator error on my part: I should have removed the “payee” from my setup once I’d cancelled the card, and I didn’t. The result was that I checked the wrong “VISA” line when I went to pay the bill.

And it was Sunday.

I tried calling the Internet technical support line and, although they were kind, they couldn’t help (it’s probably a Good Thing that technicians can’t move money).

They suggested a call “TelPay” which is the agency that actually routes online bill payments through to local credit unions for handling (the great secret of the “online banking” universe is that the back-end is still very, very manual). TelPay’s voicemail answered and I left a message; they called me back and left a message for me a few hours later telling me that there was nothing they could do to help.

So I sent email to the ever-helpful Doug Bridges at Metro Credit Union. And I left him a voicemail. And I left a general voicemail there too, just in case Doug was on vacation or out of the office.

Monday morning, bless their hearts, Metro were all over the issue, and managed to get the right messages to the right places to stop the bill payment train from running (I couldn’t imagine what trying to get $3000 back out of a closed VISA account would be like).

By the time all was said and done, it took 18 days to get the money back into my business account proving that, even with the best intentions of all involved, it still takes time to undo stupid mistakes.

I don’t fault Metro for any of this — as I said, it was operator error that caused the problem. And Doug stayed in touch with me through the undo process. But it seems to me that, going forward, it might make general sense to build customer-driven undo features into web banking systems; surely I’m not the only one clicking in the wrong place.

Another lesson learned.

It seems that Flickr has melted down; as a result, you can expect “this image not available” graphics to appear various places here until things are fixed there.

[[Oliver]] was very excited to find that Blue’s Clues exists in Portugal, albeit with a host named Duarte (I think) and not Steve (or Joe):

Blue's Clues in Portugal

One our way down into Porto this morning for our train out to Régua, we were nabbed by the transit cops.

The Porto Metro system, like many these days, works on the honour system — you buy and validate your ticket on your own, and there are no gates to pass through, you just walk on. The check against abuse is a team of roving ticket checkers who carry hand-held computers that can check to see if the ticket you bought (assuming you bought a ticket in the first place!) is valid.

Our tickets weren’t valid.

As it happens, we got nabbed just as our stop was coming up, so when we arrived at Trindade station we were accompanied by the Metro Cops. They were actually quite pleasant — no shackles or take-downs, etc. — and when they realized we were non-Portuguese, the gloves came on in full and they were super-nice to us.

The error of our ways was simple: we’d been working under the assumption that when you purchased a ticket, you determined the number of “zones” you needed to purchase by counting the number of zone boundaries you were going to cross. We started in C3, and were traveling through C2 to C1, so always reasoned that this would require a two zone (or “Z2”) ticket.

It doesn’t.

You count the total number of zones that you’ll travel from, through and into to calculate your ticket needs: so a trip from C3 through C2 to C1 is a three zone ticket.

Oops.

Fortunately we were taken pity on (we didn’t mention a week and a half of previous offenses), and let off with a simple purchase of the additional zones required.

There was a subsidiary issue of needing a ticket for Oliver too — ignorance again — but that again was let off with a simple ticket purchase.

In our bleary morning coffee-less fog, this all seemed a little bit overwhelming, but as the day wore on we came to appreciate how lucky we were to encounter such friendly enforcers. Had the situation gone differently, we might have spent the day cooling our heels in Transit Prison rather than floating down the Douro.

Lesson learned.

Given that the spark of the germ of the idea that got us here to Porto was reading Cork Boat by John Pollack, a necessary component of this trip was to experience Douro River up close.

So this morning the alarm went off at 6:15 a.m., we were out of the house by 7:00 a.m., and at the São Bento Station by 8:00 a.m. for departure to Régua, about 2 hours upriver from Porto, and the departure point for our cruise down-river. The day was perfect: crisp and sunny with just a little wind.

We were sailing with Douro Azul, one of the major operators on the river, and our 42 EUR ticket (1/2 price for Oliver) included train transportation up and cruise back down, with 3-course lunch on the boat included. It was worth every penny.

Before I found Cork Boat in the used books section last year, I’d never heard of the Douro river: Danube, Nile, Vltava yes, but never a word about the Douro. This is not surprising, of course, given that for many years I’d confused Puerto Rico with Portugal (yes, I am an idiot; and it kind of makes it hard to tear a strip out of others for that whole Slovenia - Slovakia confusion).

I’m happy to say that not only have I come to understand the unique attractions of Portugal, but now that I’ve sailed down the Douro, I’ve come to appreciate it as one of the world’s great rivers. I took a gazillion photos (warning: many photos of shore from river, locks, etc.), but none can really do justice to the majesty of this body of water. Like the Grand Canyon, it’s something that you simply can’t take a picture of; you gotta be there yourself to understand.

Although the cruise down-river took 6 hours, it didn’t feel long at all, as there was always something to catch the eye around the next corner. If you are ever anywhere near the Douro, I heartily recommend experiencing it firsthand.

We arrived back in Vila Nova de Gaia quay (across the river from Porto) around 6:00 p.m., and feeling the tickle of being famished, we opted to eat right on the wharf at an Indian restaurant called Real Indiana. Much to our surprise (we expected Pizza Hut style Indian food), the food was excellent, and the service stellar (anyone who gives [[Oliver]] a Kinder Surprise Egg on the way out deserves an award in my books).

When dinner was over we walked back into Porto over the Ponte Luiz I, up the hill back to São Bento Station, and caught the Metro home.

It was an excellent day.

Vacationing can be hard work, so [[Oliver]] and I took the day off. While [[Catherine]] went exploring in Porto, we rambled around the house and didn’t really do anything. Around 4:30 p.m. we got ourselves together and went out for dinner near the beach, and then went for a walk at sunset:

Leça da Palmeira Sunset Peter + Oliver = Footprints

While searching the web for a picture of our house in [[Charlottetown]] this morning, I stumbled across the fact that our house is thoroughly described here as one of “Canada’s Historic Places.” Their research is amazing — I didn’t know half of what they relate. Now I’m not sure whether I feel qualified to live in a house “associated with many prominent Islanders.”

Miracle of miracles, after a long and exhausting day yesterday, [[Oliver]] and I managed to get ourselves up and out the door by 9:30 a.m. this morning, destination: Stuart Little.

We raced over the draw bridge and caught the Metro with seconds to spare. By the time we we arrived at the Casa da Música 30 minutes later, it had started to rain; we happened upon a taxi, asked him to take us to the Hotel Impanema Park, and were glad we did when it turned out to be just a little more than too far to walk, rain or no.

This morning’s programme — a screening of Stuart Little with sundry crafts activities surrounding, and a Happy Buffet to finish — was organized by the intriguing Associação para a Medicina, as Artes e as Ideias — the Association for Medicine, Arts and Ideas. Upon arrival at the hotel we were greeted by AMAI co-conspirator (the ebullient) Cristina Basto, lucky for us an English speaker, and she gave us the lay of the land. When she told us the film was to be screened in Portuguese — something, truth be told, I’d foolishly never considered — I calmly acted like I knew all along.

And so I’ve come to think that the test of a good childrens’ movie is if it can hold the attention of kids, and their parents, in a language they don’t understand at all. I’m happy to report that Stuart Little meets this standard; but for some confusion about the identity of the strange kidnapper mice who spirited Stuart off to the mini-golf course hideaway, both Oliver and I got the whole thing. I was especially happy that it was a bona fide film presentation, with real film and a real projector; nice to see that video projection hasn’t completely overtaken the world yet.

While we had planned to leave once the film was over, Cristina invited us to stay for the aforementioned Happy Buffet. This turned out to be a very kid-centric spread of soup, rice, potatos, hamburgers, fish cakes, sausages, potato chips, brownies, chocolate mousse, fruit salad, and a Stuart Little cake, all for 10 EUR each. Suffice to say Oliver and I got our money’s worth and Oliver, being ebullient in his own way, worked the room and managed to introduce himself to almost everyone (including Cristina’s husband Filipe and their two children), find out their names, and in some cases explain the intricacies of his jean jacket to them.

By the time we emerged into the drizzly afternoon at 2:00 p.m., we were well fed and happy and feeling that, as long as there are people willing to organize Sunday morning movies with Happy Buffets, all is right with the world.

Stuart Little Cake

[[Catherine]] rang in on the mobile to announce that she’d decided that she wanted to join our caravan of fun at this point, so we arranged to rendezvous at Fundação de Serralves where we’d had so much fun on Thursday. Catherine hopped on the 500 bus and Oliver and I, after buying an umbrella to ward off the rain, ended up walking for 5 blocks in the wrong direction before seeing the error of our ways and hopping on the 207 bus that took us almost to the Serralves front door.

By the time we hooked up with Catherine, the sky was blue and the sun was out and it was a beautiful, beautiful day. We started our visit where we’d left off on Thursday with a visit to the Casa Serralves, a mid-twentieth century home filled with art deco treasures the likes of which you seldom see all gathered together in one place:

Art Deco Desk and Chairs Table and Chairs from Above

We learned later that the entire collection in the house is owned by one collector. We wanted to move in. At the very least, I think I should have T-shirts printed up with “Bring Back Art Deco Now!” on them.

Famished by all the fab art deco action, we headed down to the mid-park Tea House and enjoyed tea served in beautiful china, warm scones, smoked salmon sandwiches and a piece of chocolate cake, all under the newly sunny skies. While Catherine and Oliver ran off to order the cake, I pulled out my mobile and had a brief instant messaging exchange with [[Olle]] up in Copenhagen, readying the ground for the next leg of our trip while still basking in the glow of the first one.

Tea Service

Before leaving Serralves for the day, we popped in to the book shop (if you are ever shopping for architecture books, this is the place: they have a very broad collection). Catherine and Oliver ran upstairs to the washoom, and while they were waiting for me to arrive, who should they run into by the aforementioned ebullient Cristina Basto, now ferrying around North Carolinian visitors. While in most cases bumping into someone like this would strike me as an amazing coincidence, life with Oliver is full of such things; his social aura is great.

Filled with art and tea and chance encounters, we hopped back on the 207 bus and took it down to near the mouth of the Douro and had a very pleasant walk along the waterfront towards the ocean. Along the way we got caught in a sudden downpour; our dampness was rewarded with a series of stunning rainbows over the city:

Rainbow over the Douro

We finally reached the end (or is it the beginning?) of the Douro, and we turned right towards Matosinhos, stopping at the first restaurant we met, which happened to be a fondue place. Catherine has been wanting to pull me into her fondue cult since we met 15 years ago, and her dreams were finally realized; we shared a tasty meal of shrimp, bacon and cheese fondue followed by dessert of chocolate fondue (making Oliver’s chocolate intake for the take about 16 gallons). My only misgiving about the fondue lifestyle is fear of boiling oil spilling all over Oliver; I was running emergency extraction manoevers through my head throughout the meal — oil spills, I lunge in front of oil protecting Oliver, etc. Fortunately I never had to put them into action.

Fondue

We finished off the evening by walking through to the end of the Esplanadas da Foz, and caught the handy 500 bus all the way back to where, 12 hours earlier, we’d begun our day.

And we thought we were exhausted yesterday. Way too many photos for my own good if you’re interested.

We spent a couple of days in downtown Porto at the end of this week.

Yesterday all three of us made a late trip in, taking the 502 bus all the way from Matosinhos into the Bolhão station. While the bus started out empty, by the time we got to the centre of Porto we were packed in like sardines and it felt good to get out of the can.

We wandered into the Mercado do Bolhão, and then grabbed a coffee, tea and hot chocolate (regular readers will recognize the drink assignments) at a small place called Deu 4 Deu around the corner. As it turns out, we missed the famous Majestic Café by just a block; we passed it as we made our way towards the river:

Café Majestic

We didn’t mind, though, as the waiters at Deu 4 Deu were very nice, and accommodated [[Oliver]]’s eccentricities well.

We then walked up to the Funicular dos Guindais, which runs down the hillside to the Douro. When in Porto, don’t miss the opportunity to take this Funicular; it’s only a regular transit ticket fare, and the view is spectacular and the ride harrowing. At the bottom of the hill we found ourselves directly under the beautiful Ponte Luiz I:

Tram Passing over Ponte Luiz I

Of course we also found ourselves at the bottom of Porto with a need to get back up to the top. We thought we had it made when we found an elevator that, for 1 EUR each, took us all the way to the top. Unfortunately this was some sort of trick elevator that didn’t actually allow one to get anywhere once at the top. Other than down. So we ended up walking halfway down the side of the hill again, and then through a large road tunnel into the lower part of the city.

Then it was up the hill again to the Metro where Catherine and Oliver rode all the way home and I diverted to buy clothes for Bob (Oliver’s doll and mentor) and other sundries at Norteshopping. We were all exhausted by all the up and down and slept well.

This morning Oliver and I headed out into a drizzly morning towards the Matosinhos Public Library. Unfortunately by the time we got there at 13h it was just closing, but we had an excellent snack at the library café on the mall (libraries here seem to have bars and cafés built in as matter of course; this is a Good Idea).

We then made our way through the almost-rain to the Metro, and rode back into the downtown hill country. This time we walked up the hill from São Bento station; on our way up, Oliver took the hand of a passerby. Said passerby, while initially shocked at the offer, was delighted by the Oliver, and proceeded to walk hand-in-hand with him all the way up. At the top we said our good-byes and then happened upon the wonderful Livraria Lello bookstore, an art deco paradise, and perhaps the nicest store I will ever be inside in my entire life:

Livraria Lello Staircase

I felt a strong obligation to buy things from them so as to offer my support to the beauty they maintain, so we spent 30 minutes browsing and walked away with a good selection of Portuguese childrens’ books.

We continued “down-river” through various interesting alleys and squares, eventually taking a very, very steep hill down towards the water. Halfway down the hill Oliver announced he had to pee; normally this would, hidden inside the rabbit warren of an old downtown as we were, present a grave problem. As it happened, however, he announced this exactly as we walked by some sort of city-run community laundry, shower and washroom facility. It was beautiful, clean, and just what we needed.

Public Facilities

Sated, we continued down to the river where we caught the antique electric trolley down-river until its terminus where we hopped on a convenient bus 500 that took us right back to Matosinhos Mercado, by way of the stunning oceanside road.

As on Friday, all the up and down took it out of us, and as I type Oliver and Catherine are fast asleep. Oliver and I plan to get up tomorrow morning and make it into the Hotel Ipanema Park for 11h for a free showing of Stuart Little. It will be a miracle if we make it.

About This Blog

Photo of Peter RukavinaI am . I am a writer, letterpress printer, and a curious person.

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I have been writing here since May 1999: you can explore the 25+ years of blog posts in the archive.

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