London

I made a quick, incomplete, but still satisfying visit to the Tate Modern at the end of a long day. The gallery has the benefit of being open late (until 10:00 p.m. the date I visited) and free. 

I made a quick dash through the galleries and stumbled across the Learning Centre in the basement level which has a good collection of books and archival materials, including the original bid documents for the building.

I must make a return visit, as there’s much more to experience, especially with the new wing about to open.

Exceptionally good espresso macchiato served by exceptionally friendly staff.

I’d seen the V&A out of the corner of my eye on an earlier trip to London when we visited the Science Museum, but I didn’t pay close attention, and I’d no ideas what wonders were behind those walls. 

I heard a tour guide say that there are 8 miles of exhibition halls, and I don’t doubt it, as in the two hours I was there I barely made a dent in the collections. What I did manage to take in was the architecture, iron work, and theatre halls, a bit of the bookshop, and peering through corridors and things I didn’t have time to see in detail. I imagine you could take a week to tour the entire collection.

I tumbled across this outlet of the London sourdough pizza chain while searching for supper on Earl’s Court Road. The vegetarian pizza was excellent. Espresso afterwards was one of the best coffees of the trip. Top-flight friendly service, unusual, in my experience, when dining along.

Marks & Co., formerly across the street at 84 Charing Cross Road, may be long gone, but books are still very much alive in the neighbourhood. In addition to the scattering of rare and used book shops all along Charing Cross Road, Foyles has this well-resourced superstore. I found the graphic novel and crafts sections remarkably complete. 

The spiritual home of the printing trade in London, St Bride’s is steps from Fleet Street. There’s an exhibition space in the basement, free to enter, that covers the church’s connections to the trade.

Saw Our Kind of Traitor here. A small screening room, compared to the others they have, but wonderfully projected and very comfortable.

My last supper in London. Chosen because it was (a) open on a Sunday evening and (b) near my hotel. They made me a good vegetarian donburi, washed down with a glass of red wine.

[[Oliver]] and I visited the Tokyo outpost so it seemed only right that I seek out the mother ship in London. It’s a tiny perfect space with, as you might expect from the obsessive Monocle aesthetic, all the nice things remembered (moist towel with sandwiches, mint water at the ready, daily newspapers for reading, etc.).

Coffee was good and the shrimp sandwich was excellent.

Note that there is some confusion about food as it’s listed both on the “drinks” menu near the front door but then, more completely and with pictures, near the cash where you order.

The Monocle Shop is nearby, although it’s worthy only a curious visit as it’s far too small to be pleasant to spend time in.