everyone!, do not go to VW to change anything, a friend of mine has a ‘00 jetta and used to go to VW all the time, everytime he went there he would get different codes (the most common one was P0172), and when he went to another mechanic shop, it turns out that VW would input codes to his computer, if you are going to fix your jetta’s DO NOT GO TO VW, all they will do is input codes related to the real problem and take all your money. my friend had to pay over 30 hundred dollars for everyproblem his car had. my advice: get another car, my friend traded his car at carmax for a honda civic, which is the best choice he ever made in his life!

have them check the fuel pump and lines. That happened on my 2001 vw jetta 1.8T. My car would shudder and then die. I would turn over the ignition and then it wouldnt work… two minutes later, i would do it again and it would work. Then accelerating i would be flooring it and it would almost do a full stall and then accelerate. It might take a while as it took 3 months and almost $500 to fix it, but have them check it various times. The check engine light would go on and off.

i had the same problem with my 1.8t golf.it was misfireing out of #1 and it was because of the coil pack not being plugged in all the way.try unplugging them and then plugging them back in.thats what i did and my car runs very good now.

its your coil packs.

hey folks, if your jetta is shuddering, like its not getting gas, its the ignition coil. The little bugger cracks and gets wet inside, the car misfires and spits out a ton of gas into the exhaust. im in the process of replacing mine. 185 bucks. You will notice the shuddering morso in the rain or when the car sits for a day or two. humidity will make it much worse. The light will blink until the engine manages to warm up to op. temperature, then it may work, or it may shudder more when yo step on the gas, either way, its gotta be replaced. I tried everything from marine epoxy to urethane paint to try and seal the craks in mine. no go.

I am the only owner of my 2005 Jetta. I had ZERO problems until this past year with my car. Last July (2009) the power windows in the front stopped working. Of course in the rain. Then I got them to go up and had to avoid all bank and fastfood drive threws until the first freeze when the driver side miraculously began working again… Windows are not a priority because I also needed new tires. Then new breaks. Then a new master hydraulic break cylinder. NOW my emissions light is flashing and my car only starts every other time for the last 4 days, runnign very rough, threatening to stall at every red light and stop sign and lurching forward and back in the process. Also, everytime the breaks went bad or the oil light comes on or now this light, a brake light or parking light shorts out! I now have a rental car for at least a week, who knows how much longer while I wait to get it into one of the only guys around who works on VWs in my area—-because they are so backed up with VWs to repair !!! One thing I do kow if I just found out that my oil change place has been accidentally using regular oil instead of synthetic oil for the last two oil changes—-any advice pr words of wisdom?

The vw was been done for 10 years ( recycle thing) , after that all plastics staring to deteorate, for another words, it need a lot money to keep runing. So, a big mistake buy a vw…….

Mass air flow, cleaning with crc staff, or replace it……….

Basicaly, light cming on, because too much air( poor mix). This happen because pcv valve bread more with age and miles of car, the canistry getting old give much more air to manifold( wich stay on soon litle above of idle), the brake with older give more air to manifold, too. Now we have another problem : above idle and under the maxim the EGR valve works em that area, wich make more poor the mix, specially getting old ………to fix a cel need work on entry excessive air on manifold………..
other point: MAF. The vw are manufactured for 10 years after that all plastics star decompose ( any plastic touched plastric broke) even with fuel lines (wich had been recall for that matter), so, for another words the flexiveis attach to exaut manifold star liquing, this smoke stabe the maf (so the problem on maf, is not bosch, but vw for impropery place to catche hot air feed the engine mix) solution of maf, clean with crc staf and disconet the tube coming of exaut maifold, that,s the end of maf problem. keep in mine never use electronic devices on smoke area ( even the smoke in houses must be repalce wittin five years because the possivle expousure to th smoke…….
to the engine run allways smood, use allways a single spark, the multilple sparks soon get some miles never let the engine run smood……….

Fininsh , the ox sensor come to work on scale 1 t0 10, and set by factory to work 4 t0 6, but with time so many air go to intake passing out of control of maf, the sensor star raise to apropiate too much air outside of control of maf, soon star reach 10 and the light go on, by the time the never get bellow 10, that means never more go of.
On the outher cars, they came with device wich dealer can set the ox sensor back to scale 4 to 6,in creasing the mix on maf given rom to sensor so they never give to much trouble with cel…….vw forget, looks lately vw had been made by ignorants, who just want make money on reputation get the older cars, and lie of costumer………so never by vw or audi……..is the same……….
Note Welll: when unpluged ox sensor, de computer of car give valium 10, so the engine will be on maxim of consum possivel on that stage of engine, for show if the ligth cel is on before disconet the ox sensor, nothing happen, the engine ready on high mix possivle..I the driveres of vw catch these ideas never get major problems with vw…….wich suppost a job of vw factory…………

joe

I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0 with 132,000 miles on it. I’ve had sooooo many problems with this car. Never ever in a million years would I buy another VW. I’ve replaced endless coolant related parts. It seems as though after over $2,000 that problem is “fixed”. Now I’m having a whole new variety of issues. I went to get my fancy high mileage oil change the other day. I was being super responsible and even took care of it ahead of schedule because I’ve heard Jettas really suck up oil. AS SOON as I drove off the lot post oil change my car started shaking. I turned around and drove back to the oil change place and gave the manager a piece of my mind. He started it, opened the hood and checked things, then told me that they did everything right and well it wasn’t shaking now. So I left and drove to work. It was driving mostly normal and the shaking stopped. My friend later said that maybe something got knocked and the computer readjusted when the car was turned off and then on again. So a couple days later my check engine light goes on (it’s still on). Still the car seems like it’s running alright. Now in the past few days I notice that when I’m driving the fumes are so bad that I need to drive with the windows down and if I’m sitting in traffic I feel like passing out. Then the other day I tried to drive it to work and I went about a block. The fumes were extra bad AND it when I gave it a little gas it wouldn’t go and then it would almost blast off…Oh and it’s also leaking power steering fluid. I’ve spent soooo much money on this car and I unfortunately still owe $ on it. I am all set to buy a new car (NOT A VW) in about 8 weeks but I REALLY need it to last for at least that much longer. Is there any chance that it’s just the O2 sensor that was recalled? (Power steering fluid looks to be a slow leak and just started)

Hi I have a 2000 vw jetta GLS 2.0 with 82,000 miles my transmission went out I got it fixed and now the cars check engine light came on the code it gives is to have the throttle body readapted. So I took it to the dealership they checked it and said that it was the wire harness going to the throttle body I paid $800 to have them replace it they also said that the computer was fine. Well they replaced it and it is still the same now they say that maybe it is the computer ($2000 for parts). What do you guys think should I try or just use it till it finally dies? The car runs it just idles weird.

I took my car in to get the cat replaced and they said I had too many miles, that it’s factory recall but only if your car has under 100k miles.

I wish I saw this comment earlier. I have a 2003 jetta with 147,000 miles and the Check Engine Light Came on. Car seems to be running fine (weather did get colder this week and the car had been sitting for 2 weeks before the CEL came on). Hope your still available to answer this question.

1998 volkswagon jetta, wolfsburg,
check engine light does not come on at all, even when all others light up before start.
any suggestions?

I have the same problem with our 2000 Jetta. If you leave your key in the ignitionin the on position for about 10 minutes it will start. The check engine light will come on for a day or so and then go off. I’m trying to solve the problem now but still haven’t a clue. The VW garage says it’s some kind of a sensor that is difficult to reach that reads the electronic key code and only will cost $500 to replace. I say bulls__t.

Don’t do it!!! I have a jetta with the same problem…he is liing. VW can’t always figure out what is wrong and will charge you thousands of dollars!!!!!!

I just replaced my coolant temp sensor on my 03 jetta — ran me about $150 at the dealer

Hi, I have a 2000 Jetta GLS, I bought it about 3 weeks ago from a lot specializing in VW’s. A week after I drove off the lot the temp sensor came on — it comes on almost every time I start my car and stays on for a minute or two. Does anyone know what this could be ? I don’t have the money right to take it in to the dealership.
Does anyone know how I can find out if my car has a recalled sensor? I saw that VW sent out recalled VIN numbers, where can I find them? And is my car still safe with 260k’s on it?
Also, for those people with check engine light problems — When VW’s have any work done to them, your car has a memory, and the light will stay on for a few days afterwards. I was told to drive my car for 5 days — and if the light stays on after that to bring it in to be checked, and on the fifth day the check engine light shut off — and has been off since.
Thanks !

I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 2.0L with a check engine light on. Took it to a local auto parts store and they put it on the diagnostic machine,(No Charge). Codes read that it was the Coil Pack or plugs. I changed the plugs for $9.00 each,light still on. The coil pack is Only $379.00. LOL! I was told that this part had some recalls but havn’t been able to fine any reports of it. VW dealership acts like We the Consummers are Stupid and denies any recall. I dare not say I like the car or it will probally FALL apart. (LOL Again). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thx

i have a 2000 jetta the check engine light came on so i took it to auto zone they plugged in the computer and everything went goofy lights started flashing in the dash and no more start or even turn over

I have a 2003 jetta wagon my light has been on for over a year. I have just under 50,000 miles. I thought the same thing. I put black tape over when I got my inspection. My car runs fine and my theory from the beginning was if its not broke, don’t TRY to fix it. Still wonder though.

I was having engine power issues and after reading some of the probs. other people have been having i went and checked all my hoses and vaccum lines. turns out it was a $2.73 vaccum line and now it has all the power back. the check engine light is still on. the diagnostics said i need a new cam scensor and cylinder 6 misfire.. i was told it would only need plugs and wires. should i replace the ignition coil at same time even tho I was told that it is fine?

I have a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0. Just purchased it last week. I have noticed a pretty strange occurrance, after driving for an hour or so I have noticed the engine temp actually drop down below normal, to the point that the heat actually blows cold! I have been told that it could be a thermostat or a water pump issue. Any other suggestions? I live in Minnesota so having constant heat in the car is a good thing!

I’ve got a 2000 VW Jetta GLS my check engine light came on. When I had it checked I got this code P1255 DTC Definition Not Found. What does this mean and what can be causing this problem?

Hey, you paid how much for a coil pack?! !!! the thing the spark plug wires plug into? I have a 2000 model jetta 2.0 and just replaced mine off of rockauto.com for about 98$. I also have replaced the fuel filter”cheap”, Maf sensor 90$, timing belt/tensioner/ waterpump $98, serpentine belt 26$, spark plugs/wires and one vacume hose going from the pcv valve to the intake manifold 4-5 inches long. My checkengine light is on still and my car will go into rough indle, dieing at stoplights. With every improvement I’ve did I get better performance but engine will still dog without warning at any speed except higher rpms. Has a hard time adjusting air fuel mixure with cruse on at the top of hills or bottom. Also has a rougher time with bad weather( damp/wet/ rainy ) conditions. Im guessing that the fuel delivery system (pcv valve/or a fuel regulator) might have something to do with it next.

I have replaced all the parts myself and use the autostore diagnostic as much as possible. Parts from Rockauto come with instructions and are cheaper but ehow.com has been helpful to confirm that these instructions are correct and they have good tips to.

the best of luck

I replaced the plastic coolant distributer that has many coolant hoses connected to it located on the drivers side of the head bc the seal ring was bad. I noticed the coolant light on and coolant on top of my transmission below end of head. I have a 2000 2.0 jetta. leak was slow at first but progressed faster and faster. cheap part 25$ and good excuse to flush my system. the coolant is to expensive to let go to long. I smelled coolant but no burning.

Hey I was lookin at a 2000 jetta glx vr6 for two grand but he started it up n as he pressed the gas pedal it responded a few seconds later but he just mentioned he had the spark plugs n wires redone could tht be the problem ?

rip off

Great news! I would still have the car scanned for codes just to make sure that was the only problem with the vehicle. Always better to be safe than sorry.

Check Engine Light Codes

Okay well I haven’t read most of the posts. But I did read the original question. If it flashes that is the Catalytic Converter. The manual says it will do that if its the converter, but my car was also diagnosed with that problem.

Okay well I haven’t read most of the posts. But I did read the original question. If it flashes that is the Catalytic Converter. The manual says it will do that if its the converter, but my car was also diagnosed with that problem.

Do you still have your Jetta? I just purchased a 2001 Jetta wagon and, the dealer replaced the coil pack. How long did your coil pack last after it was replaced? thanks

I get around problems with the check engine light by doing all my own repairs. I download repair manuals online and save myself thousands.

oh i had the same problems with car headaches when my abs light went on. So frustrating, glad it all worked out.

this car belong to the junk yard if you have one i hope you sell it sap i had one VW Jetta 1.8t i had to replace the turbo which it was at the dealer 1.500 i got it at eBay for 300 2 oxygen sensors 300 150 a piece catalytic converter 300.00 3 time the thermostat 55.00 water pump 150.00 + timing belt 39.25 head light the connector burn n melt 150.00 a piece the coils where free because the dealer recall for them but does where replace 2 and even then the check engine still on my luck my brother is a mechanic and I was able to fix it a his shop but It would been 1.000s of dollars take my advise buy your self a Honda or Subaru this car are low maintenance if u want one the parts are chip go for the Honda if u want a better quality but your welling to pay a bit more for part go whit Subaru u wont regret this cars like vw by the way Audi is the same crap

Hey all.

I have been reading about the CEL for the MK4 generation of Jetta and I my parents had the same problem. I own the car now, but at the time, they had the O2 sensors replaced and the CEL came back on while I was driving it.

My dad took it back and mentioned he heard a hissing sound coming fromt eh gas cap when it was parked in the garage and the mechanic took notice and suggested to change the gas cap. We did that and put a non-OEM gas cap on and the light went out and now it’s been CEL free for at least 3 years.

I am hoping it is not as simple as this, but I wanted to give you all a heads up.

Cheers

P1255:Coolant temp sensor short circuit to ground. Change the thermostat. It is not working correctly, so it takes longer than usual for the coolant to heat up(constantly flowing instead of being held in the block until normal operating temperature). This in turn will trick the computer into thinking the coolant temp sensor is faulty.

I did for p1255 code. It is for engine temp sensor short circuit to ground. If the temp sensor was replaced, change the thermostat(and the plastic housing that likes to break!). Reasoning: Bad thermostat does not hold coolant in block long enough to get to operating temperature. ECU says “Hey! we must have a bad temperature sensor!” Hence the annoying CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!!

The check engine light came on today when I was driving in the high way. I am a quite new driver and this freak me out…. I thought it might be the oil, because I haven’t changed the oil for some time. After changing the oil. The light is still on…. Besides this, everything seems fine. No smells, and no blinks.

I just had my car fixed and checked one month ago. In two weeks, I am going to drive from Ohio to Maryland for nearly 7 hours. Is it safe to drive this car for such a long trip?

a few years ago my 2001 vw jetta vr6 started doing the same thing when it was raining or damp outside…after replacing the spark plugs and wires and getting nowhere we replaced the coil pack. coil pack replaced when car had 67,000 miles on it. Check engine light continued to stay on but other than the light being on there was no hesitation or loss of power…..UNTIL today….the car is @125,000 miles now, guess its time for a new coil pack. Hope this helps you out, dealing with these cars is very frustrating…good luck to all that own VWs

I have had every single problem that I have read about on this post, I have easily put $10,000 in repairs in to my 2002 Jetta GL and am tired of jumping out of my skin every time my gas light comes on! I used to hear that sound so much when it overheated and everything else that has failed and now I literally jump. I carry 4 extra quarts of oil with me because I’m in California and there’s lots of hills and canyons, and now my check engine light is on and it struggled to accelerate and the rpms wouldn’t adjust on my automatic. I had Pep Boys read the code and it said it was an ignition coil, has anyone had this problem and how much does it cost to have done?

I realize this is an old blog but thought I might try to resurrect it.
My 2003 Jetta wagon 2.0 Liter automatic has been mis-behaving lately. It started a few months ago with difficult starts after a short run like after filling at the gas station. I don’t overfill it so I don’t think it’s related to the evaporative emissions charcoal filter being saturated. This morning when I started it it ran on 2 or 3 cylinders so I limped into my garage and sprayed the high voltage spark plug wires and coil with water displacer 40 (WD40) I was able to start it after 5 minutes. It’s running much better so far but I too have had a coolant temperature sensor or circuit fault code set for several months. I’ve cleared it several times but it comes back in a few minutes to a few hours. Just a thought, Last summer I had the plastic water pump impellar self destruct. I went to my local VW parts counter where I proceeded to pick the brain of the chap. (the young guys like to prove they know lots to older guys so he was willing to spill some pertinent info) The plastic impellers are known for this and the replacement pump now has an aluminum impellar. Replacing the pump is not for the faint of heart and it is driven directly off the timing belt. It’s a really good idea to replace or have it replaced by a competent mechanic before and at each 100,000 Km. This engine, I’ve been told, is not a free wheeeling engine. In other words, some of the valves will be left stranded in the open or partially open position when the belt slips or breaks, resulting in piston to valves smashing into each other. You would need a major rebuild after such a catastrophe.
So my thought is that when I had the pump replaced, air may have become trapped in the cooling system as well as chunks of plastic. First of all, the plastic could keep the thermostat from closing if a piece became lodged in it. Second, and this applies to many modern vehicles, with air trapped in the system, localized hot spots and incorrect sensor readings may be the result. The plumbing system on many vehicles will not naturally vent all of the air out when it is refilled after maintenance. I learned this when I owned several old 240 series Volvos. Whith the engine cold and no pressure in the cooling system, one old time Volvo mechanic opened the coolant expansion tank and proceeded to rev the engine at a high rpm. The amount of large air bubbles that came gurgling out of that expansion tank was amazing!
I just ordered the Bentley Repair manual so I will check out the re-fill procedure if it has one.
Anyone else have any thoughts on these topics? I really like the car and was hoping to keep it for another 195,000 Km. Thanks

VW 2.0 litre Jetta (gasoline powered) I posted a reply which became lodged near an older comment near the bottom of page one, so now I see that I should have just posted a new comment. Thanks to the brainchild of RUK for putting Waterdown On. on the WW cyber map! (I’m currently near there)
On to my recent adventure in repairing my sickly 2.0 Jetta: My coolant temperature sensor has not come back on since I topped up the expanion, and also properly called a cushion tank. The code I had two weeks ago was an oxygen sensor heater circuit low voltage, although I don’t remember which sensor it was, I think it may have been both, but not at the same time. I received the heavy Bentley shop manual and began to devour it this week. A light bulb went off in my head while studying the pictorial diagram for the fuel system! Both oxygen sensors receive their heater voltage from the fuel pump relay. My thoughts were that the car lacked power and didn’t seem to be getting enough fuel, so maybe the fuel filter was becoming clogged? I read in the manual that the gasoline models are equipped with a filter that should last the life of the car. I’m not sure how many kilow-meters they think that is. (and I realize km is not a hyphenated word and does not have a W but since so many people say it wrong I thought I may as well start spelling it wrong)
I went to my VW dealer and bought a new relay and also the short piece of vacuum hose that connects the intake manifold vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator. (note that the regulator is located near the top of the engine and the relay is under the dashboard, near the steering column) The car runs much better. I can climb hills again!

The car has a default in the computer system that when the check engine light comes on it and starts blinking the computer goes into what is called safe mode and reduces power to the engine until the light stops blinking.

One year ago I bought a 2000 Jetta GLS with 146,000KMS (10 years old). It had a solid body and clean interior. I was impressed by the LOW KM’S, style and layout- just as I was when I purchased my ‘79, ‘86 and ‘92 VW’s when they were 10 years old. I also expected all of the quirks and minor inconveniences that I had simply “put up with” from those model years (like any car).

What I did not expect in the 2000 model year was- EXACTLY THE SAME MECHANICAL PROBLEMS observed from the three model years mentioned above….ONLY 30 YEARS LATER, AND 1000 TIMES WORSE! For this model year and beyond, it seems as though there are extra surprises….

The advent of electronic controlls, coupled with the outsourcing of manufacturing to Mexico and China (for parts), have apparently been too much for the “excellent” GERMAN ENGINEERING that we have all come to “know” and love.

Absolutely everything that could go wrong with my 2000 Jetta, HAS GONE WRONG!

My question is- how can VOLKSWAGEN possibly, as an internationally recognised car company, go more than 30 years WITHOUT improving their engineering or manufacturing processes….. AND ACTUALLY DEGRADE THEM and still be a reputable business?

I have just read more than 10 years worth of VW complaints, on various blogs,and EVERYONES STORY IS THE SAME- broken and unsafe interior and exterior parts, mechanical breakdowns (at low KMS), constant inexplicable elctronic problems and so on.

I can’t believe there have NOT been class action lawsuits against this (now) deplorable company. People are still talking TEN YEARS LATER! Nevermind the model years after 2000….

My most recent car before this was a 2002 Ford Escort which never let me down. I just drove it to the scrap yard a few months ago with 396,000 KMS (246,000 Miles)and it was still in better mechanical shape than this VW PIECE OF SHIT- and less than half the milage!

From what I hear, later models are not much better.

Volkswagen OWES millions of unfortunate customers as far as I am concerned!

BEFORE YOU GO TO YOUR DEALERSHIP .. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic & Safety Administration at www.NHTSA.gov)_WEBSITE FOR CONSUMER COMPLAINTS, SERVICE BULLETINS and RECALLS. Often, when a problem has reached critical mass—as in the volume of vw owners who experience it—BUT it does not represent a SAFETY HAZARD— a recall is not required but a SERVICE BULLETIN is sent out to all dealerships from VW headquarters, as required by NHTSA. GO ARMED WITH a COPY OF THE BULLETIN .. if the dealer you go to stonewalls—and insists you pay—GO TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP. Sadly, many dealers are not service oriented, but some still are. I drive over an hour to one out of state, because they ALWAYS ALWAYS do the right thing (Manchester VT USA). Even to the point of the girl in service offering to pay out of her own pocket because she felt it was the department’s fault. (Fortunately it turned out to be covered by the warranty-but I felt bad that she was going to pay the whole thing so I offered to split it!). I had similar issue w/my Subaru. One dealer screwed me big time, another went above and beyond. ALL the issues VW owners have (AIRBAGS BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES COIL PACKS ECM LIGHT ENGINE LIGHT CHILD SEAT LATCH SUN ROOF LEAKS) you name it.. they’re all there. The dealers KNOW the problem exists, and they HOPE you don’t know you’re one of thousands. GO ARMED w/INSIDE INFORMATION and FILE YOUR COMPLAINT ON NHTSA!!! (if you can—although it doesn’t ask whether you’re in the USA) DOING THIS ONE THING IS HOW RECALLS HAPPEN!! (AND helps you get VW to pay for the repairs). Thanks and I apologize for all the uppercase—went a little crazy there but VW quality has seriously degraded over the last decade. Sadly, it appears to only get worse. I love my VW — have had 4… and maybe there won’t be a fifth.

3 words-Buy a Honda. I have a 2000 1.8t, from the sounds of the posts it seems she is about to bite the dust. On a good note, it does have 130k and was purchased used with about 30k. Although I am very displeased with build quality, components, service, and part expense; I have been fortunate in that I have only made one major repair (mass air flow). I am experiencing some of the same symptoms as others at this point though. I thought I would share some of the things I have learned in my quest to avoid the stealership over the last 8 years. I used to get the coolant light, It is MANDATORY that you use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water- otherwise it will over heat. I also found that I could not use conventional 10w-30(I live in Tennessee) motor oil. Don’t know if this was only associated with the turbo, but my car would burn up conventional oil. I started it on synthetic and broke my cardinal rule because my wife was driving 2000 miles/month and I was tired of changing it. The oil light was constantly yet randomly coming on and sqwauking at us. I switched back to synthetic oil and it hasn’t come on since. I do have to run 93 octane, or I do get a CEL, also stay away from cheap gas, use Shell or Exxon or something. I realize you SHOULDN’T have to, but you do because the car is sub-par. I’ll happily pay that $3.00 if it keeps me away from VW. I have taken my car to VW twice, once to bring it in for the brake light switch recall and another 50 miles later to have the car scanned for the new CEL I had, only be be told I had to pay for it as they did nothing wrong. &$%# you buddy, you wont see me again unless it is dropping nails underneath the tires of all the cars you have for sale, or maybe practicing with my 3W from across the street. The code was for the secondary air. Auto zone reset it and it went off for a while. Then back on an one day when Im driving down the road it runs about 5 minutes and then starts losing power and dies. Wont restart until it cools off. Does this several times. Weird. Didn’t even scan it, parked it and bought an Accord. I was also experiencing the gas smell when idling at a stoplight. It has been sitting in my driveway for a year now and I jump it off tonight and low and behold it starts up, I drive it about 30 miles and never shuts off. Go figure again. Maybe it was tired and needed a break. Or maybe just some competition from the Accord. I am expecting the yellow light of death back on in about 20 more miles. And then sputtering and dying again.I’ve rambled, but I wanted to point out the oil and coolant quirks I had. I also did o2’s but somewhat expect that with 130k. I did want to ask if anyone knew what causes the gas smell when sitting at a light? I notice if you turn the a/c re-circulation button off it stops.Is it related to the secondary air, or maybe the coil pack issues? I plan to put a coil pack in it(cheapest I can find) and change the vacuum tubes on the secondary air. I refuse to pour a bunch of money into it. I have been very lucky compared to some and will cash out while I am ahead. I have never met such an arrogant group as the employees at my local dealer. I feel for anyone who has to deal with them.Especially considering that they seem to jack more up than they fix. Pretty bad for a bunch of specialists who feel they are worth premium rates, and arrogant on top of that. Good luck to everyone in their repairs. VW missed the mark on these cars. They are definitely lemons. I just got somewhat lucky. I say that, but I also have a 95 Jeep Cherokee with 180K that I’ve put a fuel filter, a coolant outlet, and a set of windsheild wiper blades on in the last 5 or 6 years. Total cost of repairs=maybe $50. Total time performing repairs=maybe an hour.

I have a 2000 Jetta with the check engineering light on and have been recently told I need a new converter nd sensors how much is this going to be and I read the. 2000 jettas had a recall on the sensors can That save me some money if so how?
please and thanks for your knowledge. :)

I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 for which the check engine light came on some time ago. Instead of taking it to the dealer I went to an independent shop where they replaced the catalytic converter, shortly after it was replced the light came on again. The shop said the catalytic converter they put in was probably bad, so they replaced it, again. Shortly after that the light came on, again… Tired of dealing with the shop and the hassle of getting a ride when the car was there I just lived with the light on permanently and have been driving like that for almost 2 years now. Well my cars registration is up and every other year I have to get an inspection done and this one is it! Of course the car won’t pass the inspection with the light on so I did what any other person in my position would do, turn off the light with a OBD computer. I had done this in the past just not before the inspection, usually the light stays off for around 30 miles. Anyway I took it to the emmisios inspection and lo and behold they can tell that the light has been reset recently so they can’t test… So they refund my money at the emmisions inspection and tell me to come back after driving the car oh say around 30 miles. I don’t want to shell out another $1000+ for another catalytic converter that in the end would also fail like the previous three I had, I am going to look into adding the octane booster as was done on the previous post but I am not holding my breath. Any suggestions?