the 02 sensor sounds to be your trouble the car is deprived of air and is sputtering..umm good luck

the damage was done too late soounds like the head gasket burned pretty bad 2 things you have to for sure keep in a car thats oil and water

did you return the car in 30 days ? if not the lemon law will not apply and also theres this insurane you can buy now for cars like 60 a month and they guarantee you pay nothing but a 50.00 dollar dedut i would look into that before dropping hundreds more.

sonuds lkie a vackcum leark to mie

normally you will hear a c converter i think your oxygen sensor was to blame

yeah replaceing the cat convert takes blow tourches does that give you some idea..

I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX, my engine light and EPC light were both on so I took to my mechanic and after troubleshooting he told me that my EPC light was on due to a faulty brake switch, which has a recall but cost me over $200 in diagnostics.
He also told me that my engine light was on because my O2 sensor was reporting that my cat converter was bad, even though the cat was not bad. he told me that my computer needed to be reprogrammed by VW because they did not program the car with wide enough ratio for the O2 sensor to think cat is bad when they made the car and that VW has the update to reprograme computer. I called VW and they want $175 to read code and $175 to reprogram. i told them that the code has already been read and i did not want to pay for that again said i just want it reprogrammed they did say that there is a update for this issue. i still have not taken car in for update.
at this point, only my engine light is on, so when filling up with premium fuel, as i always use, i also added Octaine Booster. when i started the car, no engine light came on. which made sense if burning cleaner. Engine light stayed off for about 2 months / 6k miles then came on again so i added octaine booster again and again the light went off and stayed off for about the same amount of time.
about the same time light came back on i started noticing a backfire when i shift from 1st to 2nd, and car was misfiring. i replaced my spark plugs and it was like driving a new car. this was about 3 months ago, and just a few days ago my engine light has come back on. i may have it reprogrammed since i just read cat warranty was extended to 120k and i have 124k.
i am experiencing a new problem now as well, when i start the car sometimes, my teMp light flashes and it says “STOP” “CHECK COOLANT” “SEE SERVICE MANUAL” but then sthe light either goes off or if i shut off car and start again it does not happen. the car does not overheat nor does this hmp senappen while im driving the car. i recenlty also had to pay $700+ to have water pipe (a.k.a. crack pipe), temp sensor and housing replaced.
anyone know what this problem could be?
dont think its related to check engine light cause that alwasys says emissions workshop.

my car seems to not get gas even though I am pushing the gas peddle”

i had the same problem on my 2000 jetta vr6 the problem was spark plugs and wires.

That happened to my car too and it is the OXYGEN SENSOR just like the girl was talking about above, GET IT CHANGED FAST, the oxy sensor determines the air to gas ratio, and if the ratio is wrong the firing will be off and there will be excess chemials and gas left over that travel to the catalytic conver and will cause it to go bad eventually, that happened to me. If I had known about the recall I could have gone down and gotten it fixed for free and never have to pay the $350 dollars plus $50 for my sensor and catalytic converter. When the sensor is bad the car will go into a certain mode that will cause it to put just enough air and gas to fire, basically it’s like emergency mode to get you to the next gas station, the guy who told me about it called it skip mode, it feels like your car is skipping and lurching forward and there is almost no power because it is getting the smallest amount of gas and oxygen possible to keep the car moving. I hope this helps I have had almost any and every problem with my 00 jetta that is humanly possible. I’m putting up the for sale sign today. Hope this helps!

Have the same car SELL SELL SELL I’m telling you now, I’ve spent over $6,000 on repairs and its still not running right, I can’t even sell it for that much!! Save yourself time and money, mechanics will never fix it right anyways!!

Misfiring is usually due to the ignition coils 2 of mine went out too, check engine light would come on and flash. Dunno why they go bad, usually spark plus are burnt after the ignition coil goes gotta get it all replaced. When the ignition coil is bad you can feel it, not enough power in the car.

If you unplug the battery the check engine light will go off for like 10 miles then turn back on, it doesn’t change anything it just takes a while for the car to sort itself back out after being detached from the battery, get a diagnostic check.

Oops, to my answer above this one was not for your question sorry!

If you unplug the battery the check engine light will go off for like 10 miles then turn back on, it doesn’t change anything it just takes a while for the car to sort itself back out after being detached from the battery, get a diagnostic check

AMEN! I Say we all sell!!! Too much money for parts, especially when they dont fix the problem!!

I got the hazard light recall switch years ago but I never got the oxygen sensor, which I am extremely angry about, who cares if the hazards don’t work that’s a cheap fix. This oxygen sensor will cause all kinds of problems, of course I didn’t get that recall.

I have a 2000 VW jetta VR6. 95K miles. The check engine light stays on. And the ABS and traction control lights come on whenever the ABS motor fails which is often. Several mechanics have said brakes are not dangerous, quoted price to fix b/n 800 — 1400 dollars. Have put much $ in car. Temperature gauge failed this summer going up a mountain road as I was monitoring said temp gauge, car overheated and conked out, temp gauge never moved. Miles from home cost me $1900 to fix. But here’s the real kicker, finally got fed up and took it in to trade-in on a new Honda and was only offered $500 and $1000 for it at different dealerships. Blue book says I should get around 4K (and yes, that’s trade-in). Thinking I might take my chances and run it into the ground and just junk it if another major repair comes up. Might be able to get a few more months out of it which would equal the paltry $500-$1000 I’d get from the dealer. Hate this car — Big mistake buying, could be driving a Lexus with the money I’ve sank into it. Mechanic said VW worst made car on the road these days.

I bought a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLS 2.0L, this is my second one.I bought it with 30,000 miles on it so I figured nothing would be wrong with it. I should of known how many problems I was going to have after the first one was a lemon and had to be returned. And Volkswagen could not figure out the problem until the last minute. Anyways, Every two years I smog my car, and always when it is time to smog my check engine light turns on. I have had my rear brakes replaced, my sunroof replaced( after it shattered on my head while driving, Can someone explain that one?), water pumped replaced after overheating, had the sensor replaced for the brake lights when it was recalled also. Within the past few months, my car has been acting worse and worse. The car will shut off and die at a lights. It lurches and feels like it wants to accelatrate, but having difficult doing so. Or it feels like it just wants to die. Could the lurching be from the converter or sensors??

Check engine light went on a few weeks before registeration was due, I had it looked at & the code read 420, which is the O2 sensor or Catalyic converter. I have yet to bring it into volkswagen. The repair shop I took it to wanted to charge me over $1,000 to replace the cat. But I found affordable catalyic converters online, for $400. I am so hestitant what I should do?

I did not buy the car at Volkswagen, my warranty has been up since 75,000 miles. The car is only six or seven years old…this things should not be happening especially the coverter. I was reading a forum & I read that Volkswagen is honoring an extended warranty on Catalyic converter, and would replace for free if was 10yrs or 120,000 miles. Is this true? I would love to know, because I want to fix my volkswagen and pass smog as soon as possible & then Sell it!

My 2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI CEL has been on for years, dealership said drive it till the car quit. Have developed the sidewise spring dash light blinking. Doesn’t do this everytime I run it, but is becoming more freq. What does it mean?

I have a 2003 2.0 Jetta that I’ve had for about four years. The engine light came on a week ago. The car runs fine. I’ve checked the oil and other fluids. It has 56,000 miles on it. Is there a problem or does the engine light come on whenever. Maybe it’s an insidious plot to take your car in for unneeded repairs?

Heyy i have a 2002 jetta and alot of the stuff ive been reading is starting to scare me. my engine lights been on for about two months now. ive had my spark plugs, wires and manifold gasket replaced. and it still continues to shake. it also seems like its not accelerating as fast as it should. this occurs when the engine light s blinking. i just had my coolant sensor replaced and its still happening! i need some help! PLEASEE

Please check combo valve braided hose it maybe cracked and it’s not visible

Schuks and stores like it give you the little computer thing and you hook it to your car and it gives you the code number for what the engine light is about. It’s free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had same problem- tiny vacuum hoses are all that cause this. I replaced the hoses and it fixed the problem. There is a small black valve with 2 very small hoses over by the brake booster. I erplaced the hose that went from there to the round metal thing under the throttle body, and there is another hose on the passenger side of the engine under the plastic cover that needs replaced. It is only like 10” long and runs front to back next to aluminum intake.

that’s what the problem was on mine, except I didn’t pay for anything at all! I read code, I found bad hose, I was given new hose, I cleared code, and everything is fine! Don’t underestimate the power of curiosity!

secondary air injection pump turns on when outside temp is below 50ish degrees. It helps to get catalytic converter warmed up.

I bought a 2000 vw jetta VR6 used put a motor in it. The check engine light is on, when I start shifting it loses power like it bogs down sometimes I have to pull over until it gains power again. When I drive it for a while this problem is not as bad; but its still there when shifting. I have a computer it says it is misfiring on the #1 and #6 cylinders. I had a new converter and sensors put on it (bought from oreillys because advance did not carry them). Now what to do…I read someone said something about the coil. Any suggestions PLEASE!!

I have a 2000 Jetta glx 2.8 vr6, all of a sudden when i’m driving the epc light, the anti-slip regulation and usually the check engine light will come one, and i will loose control over acceleration. i.e. it has no response when i press the gas pedal. Right before this happens the car seems to jerk and the rpm goes up and down without me doing anything. Usually i’ll turn off the car and it will be fine for a while before it does it again. It doesn’t seem to have any real consistency on when it does it i can go for a few days without it occurring and then it continually does it for awhile. In addition to this, when i turn it on again the check engine light stays on ( but not always) and will usually be on for a bout half a day till it disappears. I have new spark plugs and wires, I believe the break light sensor was replaced awhile ago and i’m looking into replacing the pcv valve in hopes that this might also help. When I took it in they said there were 8 stored DTC’s 1. P0420- catalyst efficiency below threshold, B1 2. P0140- 02 sensor B1S2, no activity 3. P0411- secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. 4. P0113- IAT sensor signal too high 5. P0300- Random multiple misfire 6. P0301- cylinder #1 misfire 7. P1545- throttle valve controller malfunction 8. P1142- load calculation cross check… Any suggestions? tess.meyer@colorado.edu

I have a 2000 Jetta glx, all of a sudden when i’m driving the epc light, the anti-slip regulation and usually the check engine light will come one, and i will loose control over acceleration. i.e. it has no response when i press the gas pedal. Right before this happens the car seems to jerk and the rpm goes up and down without me doing anything. Usually i’ll turn off the car and it will be fine for a while before it does it again. It doesn’t seem to have any real consistency on when it does it i can go for a few days without it occurring and then it continually does it for awhile. In addition to this, when i turn it on again the check engine light stays on ( but not always) and will usually be on for a bout half a day till it disappears. I have new spark plugs and wires, I believe the break light sensor was replaced awhile ago and i’m looking into replacing the pcv valve in hopes that this might also help. When I took it in they said there were 8 stored DTC’s 1. P0420- catalyst efficiency below threshold, B1 2. P0140- 02 sensor B1S2, no activity 3. P0411- secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. 4. P0113- IAT sensor signal too high 5. P0300- Random multiple misfire 6. P0301- cylinder #1 misfire 7. P1545- throttle valve controller malfunction 8. P1142- load calculation cross check… tess.meyer@colorado.edu Any suggestions?

EPC constantly coming on at low speeds, CEL comes on occassionally, fan is starting to come on long after car is shut off, engine block is still very warm after being shut off for over an hour. Had numerous checks done for problem codes, had lots of parts replaced. Nothing has fixed the problems with the EPC or CEL. Besides using this car for fire department practise auto fire, what would be somebody’s suggestion? We have spent over $3000 dollars last year alone, it is a 1991 2.8L engine, GLS Jetta.

Thank you to anybody who can help

I have had this happen to mine three times — 1) Maf sensor, 2) before oxygen sensor 3) BACK OXYGEN SENSOR. WITHIN A 9 MONTH PERIOD ALL THREE SENSORS WENT OUT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS STAYED ON. Each time they were replaced, it took approx. 50 miles before the engine light went out. But I was amazed — the performance to my car returned right after the light went out.

The two are not related. I too have the same car. Mine did overheat last year — when I replaced the flange, I replaced it with a metal one — they are plastic originally. I also replaced all hoses with a good quality. The emissions workshop is probably one of your oxygen sensors ae bad Map, Oxygen 1, or oxygen 2 — I have had to replace all three. I put a replacement motor with 54,000 miles in mine and at 62,000 have had all three sensors replaced and is now running good. Past smog here in CA with flying colors — after three sensors replaced.

Yeah think it would. all the coolant hoses are rubber — I replaced my flange to metal it too melted! I also replaced my thermastat and thermastat housing along with all coolant hoses to a higher quality rubber. Make sure you use the proper coolant for your car and mix it with water like the directions say.

How do you know when this needs to be replaced? does it quit working? Mine has stayed at 190 degrees since I have owned the car — 2000

Mine was making that bucking or hesitation while driving too and I had to replace both oxygen sensors. about 50 miles later the cel went out and the bucking stopped, if that doesnt work replace the MAf sensor it was the first to go

Check fuel pump and spark plugs. could be Maf sensor all oxygen sensors on my car had to be replaced and works fine

mine is a 2000 vr6 — when mine was shaking me more like bucking me, It was my oxygen sensor 1 and 2. I replaced one (1) first shaking went away light went out. Two months laer, light came back on so i replaced back sensor. light has stayed out, and no more misfiring or bucking.

I occassionally run regular unleaded gas, but overtime it will not have the power a vr6 should have I use premium here in CA and its happy not sure why

Ignition coil, spark plug change, and hae reader check codes for oxygen ensors 1 and 2 possible MAF sensor too definately ignition coil

Buy a code reader — check codes online. They tell you what the codes mean and fix what it tells you. Mine just told me I needed to replace both oxygen sensors so I did and problem and light went away.

Check the code number online, it should tell you exactly what it is.

I have a 2001 Jetta and the exact same problem happened with my transmission years ago. The RPMs would go up and down quickly and the car wouldn’t shift. My car was under warranty and they gave me a brand new transmission for free because they told me that problem would be too complex to look into. (It seems like it was a common problem among many) However, after a couple years the new transmission is giving me different issues. I love my car but it has caused me nothing but trouble!!

My car has this exact problem when the temperature is cool outside. NOBODY can figure out the problem!! They say it could be many sensors. I know the code comes up for the oxygen sensor. Could this be the problem?? How exactly could I warm up the catalytic converter. Could you expand on that? I would like this car to last me at least two more years.

My car has the exact same problem in the winter and I am ready to give up on it. I constantly have to pull over and restart my car to get it to shift properly. i do have to change the oxygen sensor so hopefully that will fix the problem. I will update you if it does.

My check engine light its been on after a year I bought the car…. I have the car for 9 1/2 years and spend about $2000.00 and still stuck with the same problem. 2000 Jetta suck!!!

Shoulda bought a golf! I have a 2000 VW Golf TDI. I just turned over 320,000 kms. Recently put in a new clutch and yes the regular maintenance can be a bit costly but the money I save in fuel has more than paid for that. I put on 1000 km per week and it only costme me $40 or less. By the sounds of all your comments, I don’t think I will but a new VW. Too many problems with the newer ones. I’ll drive this one until it stops.

The “check engine” light on my ‘03 1.8T Jetta came on about a year ago. The dealers said I needed a new thermostat $300 t0 $400. The car runs great. Heat is a constant 190. The water pump was replaced about 18 months ago. A friend suggested disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. This reset the light which stayed out for several months. I reset again. It came on last week just before my State emissions check. It failed with a code of P2181 (cooling system performance). I disconnected the battery cable for a few minutes. Took it back for a retest. It passed. The car runs great. I”m from the school of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Anyone have an idea of what to try next.

how long after you replaced the sensor did the light go out?

I have a 2000 VR6 my brakes all the way down. they thought it was the master cylinder, but it was not the breake booster air line was broken and replaced but is still doing the same thing. any suggestions on what it might be?

How much does it cost to get the coils replaced for the VW Jetta when the engine misfires?