2000 VW Jetta Check Engine Light

The “check engine light” in my 2000 VW Jetta has been on for almost six months. Wary of being told I need to “replace the trigenic configuration valve-pulse generator” for $950, I’ve avoided taking it in to the dealer to have it looked at. I was due for an inspection and an oil change this week, though, so I bit the bullet and made an appointment.

To my pleasant surprise there had been an “oxygen sensor recall” for the 2000 Jetta, which resulted in my getting a free brand new oxygen sensor (who knew that cars needed oxygen!) which, in turn, made the check engine light turn itself off.

There was also a recall on the “hazard light switch,” so I got a new one of those two. An interesting side-effect of that is that the “clicking sound” that my car makes when I switch on the turn signal has changed its tone (Jodi says it’s “much sharper sounding” now). It’s like a brand new car!

So total damage for inspection, a new brake light, a new oxygen sensor, a new hazard light and an oil change was only $65.

Saturday, September 3, 2005 - 5:37pm

Comments

Q on July 3, 2011

BEFORE YOU GO TO YOUR DEALERSHIP .. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic & Safety Administration at www.NHTSA.gov)_WEBSITE FOR CONSUMER COMPLAINTS, SERVICE BULLETINS and RECALLS. Often, when a problem has reached critical mass—as in the volume of vw owners who experience it—BUT it does not represent a SAFETY HAZARD— a recall is not required but a SERVICE BULLETIN is sent out to all dealerships from VW headquarters, as required by NHTSA. GO ARMED WITH a COPY OF THE BULLETIN .. if the dealer you go to stonewalls—and insists you pay—GO TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP. Sadly, many dealers are not service oriented, but some still are. I drive over an hour to one out of state, because they ALWAYS ALWAYS do the right thing (Manchester VT USA). Even to the point of the girl in service offering to pay out of her own pocket because she felt it was the department’s fault. (Fortunately it turned out to be covered by the warranty-but I felt bad that she was going to pay the whole thing so I offered to split it!). I had similar issue w/my Subaru. One dealer screwed me big time, another went above and beyond. ALL the issues VW owners have (AIRBAGS BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES COIL PACKS ECM LIGHT ENGINE LIGHT CHILD SEAT LATCH SUN ROOF LEAKS) you name it.. they’re all there. The dealers KNOW the problem exists, and they HOPE you don’t know you’re one of thousands. GO ARMED w/INSIDE INFORMATION and FILE YOUR COMPLAINT ON NHTSA!!! (if you can—although it doesn’t ask whether you’re in the USA) DOING THIS ONE THING IS HOW RECALLS HAPPEN!! (AND helps you get VW to pay for the repairs). Thanks and I apologize for all the uppercase—went a little crazy there but VW quality has seriously degraded over the last decade. Sadly, it appears to only get worse. I love my VW — have had 4… and maybe there won’t be a fifth.

Jeremy on July 7, 2011

3 words-Buy a Honda. I have a 2000 1.8t, from the sounds of the posts it seems she is about to bite the dust. On a good note, it does have 130k and was purchased used with about 30k. Although I am very displeased with build quality, components, service, and part expense; I have been fortunate in that I have only made one major repair (mass air flow). I am experiencing some of the same symptoms as others at this point though. I thought I would share some of the things I have learned in my quest to avoid the stealership over the last 8 years. I used to get the coolant light, It is MANDATORY that you use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water- otherwise it will over heat. I also found that I could not use conventional 10w-30(I live in Tennessee) motor oil. Don’t know if this was only associated with the turbo, but my car would burn up conventional oil. I started it on synthetic and broke my cardinal rule because my wife was driving 2000 miles/month and I was tired of changing it. The oil light was constantly yet randomly coming on and sqwauking at us. I switched back to synthetic oil and it hasn’t come on since. I do have to run 93 octane, or I do get a CEL, also stay away from cheap gas, use Shell or Exxon or something. I realize you SHOULDN’T have to, but you do because the car is sub-par. I’ll happily pay that $3.00 if it keeps me away from VW. I have taken my car to VW twice, once to bring it in for the brake light switch recall and another 50 miles later to have the car scanned for the new CEL I had, only be be told I had to pay for it as they did nothing wrong. &$%# you buddy, you wont see me again unless it is dropping nails underneath the tires of all the cars you have for sale, or maybe practicing with my 3W from across the street. The code was for the secondary air. Auto zone reset it and it went off for a while. Then back on an one day when Im driving down the road it runs about 5 minutes and then starts losing power and dies. Wont restart until it cools off. Does this several times. Weird. Didn’t even scan it, parked it and bought an Accord. I was also experiencing the gas smell when idling at a stoplight. It has been sitting in my driveway for a year now and I jump it off tonight and low and behold it starts up, I drive it about 30 miles and never shuts off. Go figure again. Maybe it was tired and needed a break. Or maybe just some competition from the Accord. I am expecting the yellow light of death back on in about 20 more miles. And then sputtering and dying again.I’ve rambled, but I wanted to point out the oil and coolant quirks I had. I also did o2’s but somewhat expect that with 130k. I did want to ask if anyone knew what causes the gas smell when sitting at a light? I notice if you turn the a/c re-circulation button off it stops.Is it related to the secondary air, or maybe the coil pack issues? I plan to put a coil pack in it(cheapest I can find) and change the vacuum tubes on the secondary air. I refuse to pour a bunch of money into it. I have been very lucky compared to some and will cash out while I am ahead. I have never met such an arrogant group as the employees at my local dealer. I feel for anyone who has to deal with them.Especially considering that they seem to jack more up than they fix. Pretty bad for a bunch of specialists who feel they are worth premium rates, and arrogant on top of that. Good luck to everyone in their repairs. VW missed the mark on these cars. They are definitely lemons. I just got somewhat lucky. I say that, but I also have a 95 Jeep Cherokee with 180K that I’ve put a fuel filter, a coolant outlet, and a set of windsheild wiper blades on in the last 5 or 6 years. Total cost of repairs=maybe $50. Total time performing repairs=maybe an hour.

Dan Sullivan on August 18, 2011

For all the VW haters out there, I have owned my 04 Jetta GLI since it was new. I do all the scheduled maintenence myself and have never had a single problem. At 72,000 miles it’s still a fun car to drive and looks great too. In case you haven’t looked at a new one lately, the fit, finish and engines just getbetter with each generation. Like many things in life you get out what you put in. If you take care of your car it will take care of you. It’s engineered in Germany where some of the best cars in the world are made. It may cost a little more to maintain but it’s worth it.

viki on July 21, 2011

I have a 2000 Jetta with the check engineering light on and have been recently told I need a new converter nd sensors how much is this going to be and I read the. 2000 jettas had a recall on the sensors can That save me some money if so how? please and thanks for your knowledge. :)

BrettB on September 5, 2011

Just a quick word to many people above. The most important thing to do with any car is find a good mechanic that specializes in your brand of car and stick with them The people who work at dealerships are NOT mechanics. They are technicians: all they do is read a code and do what the manual tells them. A truly good mechanic, who has experience with your brand of vehicle will be actually think about whats going on, how it happened and what the computer says in conjunction with each other. NEVER take your car to some schmo that “fixes” all kinds of vehicles, NEVER take your car to a dealership (unless it’s under warranty) and NEVER take your car to several different mechanics for the same problem…if there’s a problem that is fixed by doing one thing but then the problem returns, it tells you something and you can’t blame a mechanic for a problem returning…

barnabas on August 21, 2011

my vw jetta 4,2000 model with engine capacity of 2.0 i experience oil coming out of the engine through plug one. my mechanic raised the plug by giving it an adopter,its a month now and the second plug is also serving as a way for oil to get out of the engine.this way the engine sound change and the car cant pull like the way it use to.

Dan Sullivan on August 18, 2011

Inigo of NY on December 21, 2011

I have a 2000 Jetta. Just recently replaced the transmission, which solved most my problems, but check engine stayed on after with two codes. One is a misfire (maybe lose or bad spark plus) and other is for the catalytic converter. Jettas burn oil which clog and damage your CC. By that, all sensors start to go crazy because air gets backed up, engine cant pump and car goes into Safe Mode. I do not plan on selling the car and getting a new one on the fact that Id rather spend 5K on repairs to an older car and have it last 4 more years, than to spend 25K on a new one, which will be worth 5 K in 5 years. Cars are made on materials that deteriorate due to weather, snow and salt, heat, etc… Most of us hate spending the cash, but it will happen to any car, some just faster than others. Unless you lease, you will always have these problems at some point. My Jetta might have given me major headaches, but once the problem is fixed, its fixed. The other major problem is mechanics who replace whatever the codes read, rather than trying to figure out why a sensor is failing and what is causing the code (i.e. Misfire or O2 sensor). I luckily have found two very honest one in the NYC area who have fixed my car on “reasons” which have made the codes go away. BUT, now, time to buy a catalytic converter! (FYI, just by the sound of the car, I have known it was on its way out for some time. The car starts to slug over a period of time as the CC begins to clog)

Tyler on September 13, 2011

I bought a new VW Rabbit in 2008, just paid it off this year! I just got relocated with my job to NYC and I thought about selling it so I wouldn’t pay for storing it, since I probably won’t need a car. I decided today that I’m just going to put it on the Allied truck with all my other stuff and ship it, since the company is paying for moving expenses, I should just keep it for now. I love that thing.

Matt on October 12, 2011

Hi, I have a 2003 VW Jetta GL 2.0 5 speed with 136,000. I just jumped timing and I’m pretty sure its due to my water pump, I’ve been popping a code since I bought it a year ago about a cts, or pump replaced the Cts (dealer did it) code on and off since how can I tell exactly what’s wrong and will I have to drop motor to replace timing belt and pump?

Matt on December 17, 2011

where can I take advantage of this recall on the oxygen sensor? must I go to a dealer? or what..?

cody on November 4, 2011

i have a 2000 jetta vr6 and i had to replace the moter and once all back together the car begin to misfire and the o2 senor messed up and the car had no power but yet was using way to much gas….. i tore it down and found that i had one injector staying open and flooding out and replaced the injector and found out that the prob was in the wiring that the pc was teling it to stay open but that is the only one doing this….. any idea how to fix this…… i did find that the vacum line to the brake purg vaule if not on at all could this be what is making this happen…. i just dont know y it is only the one wiring injector…..the coil pack has been replaced as well as the spark plus and injectors so i have no idea what it could be other than vacum line or the pc is messed updo to a new engine….. please help

Frank on February 9, 2012

1999.5 Jetta 2.0L, AEG, automatic. Problem: Car will not accelerate past 1000 RPM. Starts to buck or lurch when you try to give it gas. You could floor it and the car will just buck at about 5 miles a hour. Would you call this “limp mode”? Car always starts with no problem and idles normal….but idle seems to be getting worse. Shoots up to 3000 RPM then back down when it sits idling. Codes thrown: 16507 P0123 17953/P1545/005445 - 16486 P0102 00670 What was tryed. Myself: Clean throttle body every-which-way, clear codes, car works for 5 mins., back to same problem. Swap to other throttle body same codes. Clean again, works for 5 minutes the back to problem. First shop: Check for codes, check wiring, aligned throttle body – same problem. Swap to “good used TB” same problem. Swap out ECU, they said car ran great. Replace original ECU, car ran crappy. Returned to 2nd ECU car still ran crappy. They can no longer clear codes. said they “Checked everything can’t figure it out” said they spend 10 hours on car but only charging $365.00. Second Shop: Attach new TB, same codes. Attach new mass air flow sensor, same codes. Checked wiring, fuel , new battery ,can’t find problem. Said they spend 10 hours on car but only charging $200:00 Nobody can successfully do the throttle body adaptation !!!!!!! Myself: Read some forums. I Replaced transmission speed sensor G68 for “limp mode”, No change. Third shop – Same old BS.

Gabriel on April 1, 2012

I got a P0172 reading for my engine light on, meaning a leak in vacuum (PCV Valve; It's a VW Jetta 2003 1.8T...Any ideea where to look for remedy?

Josh on April 2, 2012

I think that the 2000 jetta would be a decent car if the average mechanic could diagnose it i have the wonderful problem at 3000 to 3200 rpms its like the car hits rev limiter but if i put my foot in the gas it skips right through it also when the car starts up for the first time in the day it starts and stalls right out with no throttle response. I have changed the fuel filter.sparkplugs.wires oil swapped out vacume lines from the EGR valve and the fuel pressure regulator.and it ran a little better. but i was under the impression that volkswagon was a decent car and have been very disappointed.

Kay on April 11, 2012

I had the same stalling out issue with my 2004 Golf 2 separate times (once when it was NEW & had less than 10,000 miles & once at about 60,000 miles). It was the wiring from the battery to the engine that had to be replaced twice (once under warranty once for $500). Now the check engine light has been on for a few weeks, I had it scanned at a Pep Boys & they really could tell me what it was except it had something to do with the cooling system. I haven't had any problems with driving it though, or overheating. We replaced the sensor for the thermostat but the check engine light is still on. Autozone refused to reset it, so we're going to disconnect the battery to reset it & see if it comes back. Might have to replace the thermostat if it comes back.

TANYA on April 25, 2012

hi i have a 2000 jetta 2.0 6cyl and omg i swear since i had it its been one thing after the other so far i had too replace the clutch twice and then the battery and then i left my car and im not even still sure what this guy held my car for a month my dad took it i paid a thosand something for cluth and more at time he said it also needed sensor also piston in engine is not working but i havent returned yet problem was he had it for so long and i needed my car lol anyway now i have a chrismess tree in my car all the lights from epc i saw too hazhard prob and break slip and reg break prob i guess breaks seem fine my dad said its when you need too stop fast and it locks up on you now i have been with the check engine light at first it flashed now it stays on i did notice the oxegin senor was under recall for 2.0 engines after my car was regected for inspection sticker now my water pump light i beleave or temp is on and im just lost for words

Brittany Phy on April 26, 2012

I have a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0L 5 speed.And it seems to have a mind of it's own cause sometimes it rides smooth and perfet other times the whole car the gas pedal and the shifter vibrates while driving. I've only had it for 3 months and had to replace headgasket water pump timing belt belt tentioner serpentine belt and thermostat which is about to get replaced again along with temperature sensor cause heat only blows hot while idleing and AutoZone confirmed that sensor is bad along with the catalytic conveter is bad and rich fuel. I I've notice that the brakes were harder than normal and that during take off, the acceleration is not what it should be and it lurches forward while driving but I noticed it only does it with the A/C on and also noticed when A/C is on the car has rode smoother and when its not on its horrible, everything vibrates and I can feel something hitting the undercarrige of the car through my feet every few seconds along with my catalytic converter rattling and scraping the road when going over bumpy rough roads. There is also a ticking noise like something vibrating under the hood but comes when I'm not pushing on the gas pedal unless going slow in 1St or 2nd gear and other times is worse when you're going fast and it gets really loud and already know its not the lifters because a quart of Lucas oil fixed that. But if anyone can help please do and if I can still get the recalls for the O2 sensor and the ignition coils please let me know cause I want to take care of my car unlike the previous owner whom which I'm paying for all the damaged they caused by neglecting to keep up with the car's normal maintenance.

Al on July 18, 2012

i have a question. The check engine light and the check battery light come on when i have the key turned only half way on my 2000 volks wagen jetta but when i turn the engine on it goes away. Is that normal? please someone help me its driving me crazy and im a college student i can't afford to have major engine work done. Thanks in advanced

Anon on October 23, 2009

the 02 sensor sounds to be your trouble the car is deprived of air and is sputtering..umm good luck

Rachel on November 13, 2009

If you unplug the battery the check engine light will go off for like 10 miles then turn back on, it doesn’t change anything it just takes a while for the car to sort itself back out after being detached from the battery, get a diagnostic check.

Rachel on November 13, 2009

Oops, to my answer above this one was not for your question sorry!

Rachel on November 13, 2009

Ajill dewaltnonymous on June 10, 2010

The two are not related. I too have the same car. Mine did overheat last year - when I replaced the flange, I replaced it with a metal one - they are plastic originally. I also replaced all hoses with a good quality. The emissions workshop is probably one of your oxygen sensors ae bad Map, Oxygen 1, or oxygen 2 - I have had to replace all three. I put a replacement motor with 54,000 miles in mine and at 62,000 have had all three sensors replaced and is now running good. Past smog here in CA with flying colors - after three sensors replaced.

Marie on June 16, 2010

I have a 2001 Jetta and the exact same problem happened with my transmission years ago. The RPMs would go up and down quickly and the car wouldn't shift. My car was under warranty and they gave me a brand new transmission for free because they told me that problem would be too complex to look into. (It seems like it was a common problem among many) However, after a couple years the new transmission is giving me different issues. I love my car but it has caused me nothing but trouble!!

chris on July 14, 2010

its your coil packs.

lovejoy on January 10, 2011

Hey, you paid how much for a coil pack?! !!! the thing the spark plug wires plug into? I have a 2000 model jetta 2.0 and just replaced mine off of rockauto.com for about 98$. I also have replaced the fuel filter”cheap”, Maf sensor 90$, timing belt/tensioner/ waterpump $98, serpentine belt 26$, spark plugs/wires and one vacume hose going from the pcv valve to the intake manifold 4-5 inches long. My checkengine light is on still and my car will go into rough indle, dieing at stoplights. With every improvement I’ve did I get better performance but engine will still dog without warning at any speed except higher rpms. Has a hard time adjusting air fuel mixure with cruse on at the top of hills or bottom. Also has a rougher time with bad weather( damp/wet/ rainy ) conditions. Im guessing that the fuel delivery system (pcv valve/or a fuel regulator) might have something to do with it next. I have replaced all the parts myself and use the autostore diagnostic as much as possible. Parts from Rockauto come with instructions and are cheaper but ehow.com has been helpful to confirm that these instructions are correct and they have good tips to. the best of luck

Anonymoused on April 15, 2011

P1255:Coolant temp sensor short circuit to ground. Change the thermostat. It is not working correctly, so it takes longer than usual for the coolant to heat up(constantly flowing instead of being held in the block until normal operating temperature). This in turn will trick the computer into thinking the coolant temp sensor is faulty.

Flyboycortes on August 10, 2011

I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 for which the check engine light came on some time ago. Instead of taking it to the dealer I went to an independent shop where they replaced the catalytic converter, shortly after it was replced the light came on again. The shop said the catalytic converter they put in was probably bad, so they replaced it, again. Shortly after that the light came on, again… Tired of dealing with the shop and the hassle of getting a ride when the car was there I just lived with the light on permanently and have been driving like that for almost 2 years now. Well my cars registration is up and every other year I have to get an inspection done and this one is it! Of course the car won’t pass the inspection with the light on so I did what any other person in my position would do, turn off the light with a OBD computer. I had done this in the past just not before the inspection, usually the light stays off for around 30 miles. Anyway I took it to the emmisios inspection and lo and behold they can tell that the light has been reset recently so they can’t test… So they refund my money at the emmisions inspection and tell me to come back after driving the car oh say around 30 miles. I don’t want to shell out another $1000+ for another catalytic converter that in the end would also fail like the previous three I had, I am going to look into adding the octane booster as was done on the previous post but I am not holding my breath. Any suggestions?

Natalie on October 7, 2011

Yes, there was a coil recall. Insist they do it.

mark on November 3, 2011

you should check you ingnition control modual does it blink mostly when its wet humid or foggy? this is what was wrong wiht mine let me know!

MsMC on January 30, 2012

There was a recall on the coil packs in CANADA! I know because I had mine changed in 2010. Funny, when the recall for cat converters was happening in the U.S. a few years ago, they would not honour it here in Canada willingly. Said it was a U.S. only recall!!! However they said they would indeed give me a new cat if my car was not older than 10 years or over 100K, km. Unfortunately, I did not qualify :( Always good to check for recalls even if they are not in your country, never know if they will honour them until you ask (I mean… demand!).

eddy on March 1, 2012

humm seems to me that the problem its just the Oxigen sensor …get it change and it will work

Nickie on August 8, 2012

Hi Leigh-Anne I just read your concerns for your 2003 jetta. I have the same car and today when I started it it backfired and was alittle hesitant when starting. What was the final outcome with your car. I want any and all information I can get before taking my car back in. It was just in shop a bout a month ago for timing belt and the hoses replaced. Did you ever find out if vw honored the extended warranty for the catalyic converter? Any info from you would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Mark on September 14, 2006

I have had a check engine light go on previously on my 2000 Jetta, but it was reset and went off. I know that these models have had catalytic converter problems, but I have not had mine replaced. Today I was driving home and all of a sudden the light went on and a LOUD exhaust problem appeared. I drove about 7 miles afterwards home with the check engine light blinking. It also appeared that my brakes were not working properly. I am thinking either the catalytic converter came loose, needs replaced, or something with the master cylinder is wrong. Any ideas?

Trevor on August 9, 2009

I had a similar problem to my 2000 Jetta GLS. It ended up being a spark plug that blew out stripping the treads in the head. The “exhaust noise” was actually the gas vapor movement exiting the spark plug hole. The shop had to helicoil the spark plug hole and remount a new set of plugs. I am currently having the issue of the check engine light though. I replaced the plugs, had the throttle body rebuilt, vacuum leaks fixed, etc, etc. No help! Anyone want to buy a 2000 Jetta GLS?

Jen on September 19, 2009

I have had a chronic check engine light problem. We have done all routine tune ups, changed the catalytic converter and two coil packs. No have with this problem. VW wants to keep my car indefinetly and tear my engine apart because they thin it is a bent piston, which is not likely to cause an intermittant problem like we are all experiencing. They need to recall thse cars. I am sure they know what the root cause is, but they don’t want to admit it. The only recourse is to file a law suit. VW has offered me no help and I can’t keep putting money into parts and service fees that don’t resolve the problem. How about the rest of you? Pretty sad when VW won’t fix the problem and you can’t get your car to pass inspection.

Rachel on November 13, 2009

AMEN! I Say we all sell!!! Too much money for parts, especially when they dont fix the problem!!

Bob on September 29, 2006

I have a 2003 jetta TDI, my engine light comes on when I put it in gear and stays on, when I turn it off it goes out. Need in put on this.

Rebecca on November 20, 2006

I have a 2000 jetta as well and the check engine light just came on. I had a friend look at it and he said the coolant level was almost empty and now that he mentions it that light has been on for about a month or two. I didn’t know what it meant. However, i’m smelling burnt rubber a little bit. Would very low level of coolant cause that smell to occur?

Anon on October 23, 2009

the damage was done too late soounds like the head gasket burned pretty bad 2 things you have to for sure keep in a car thats oil and water

Ajill dewaltnonymous on June 10, 2010

Yeah think it would. all the coolant hoses are rubber - I replaced my flange to metal it too melted! I also replaced my thermastat and thermastat housing along with all coolant hoses to a higher quality rubber. Make sure you use the proper coolant for your car and mix it with water like the directions say.

lovejoy on January 10, 2011

I replaced the plastic coolant distributer that has many coolant hoses connected to it located on the drivers side of the head bc the seal ring was bad. I noticed the coolant light on and coolant on top of my transmission below end of head. I have a 2000 2.0 jetta. leak was slow at first but progressed faster and faster. cheap part 25$ and good excuse to flush my system. the coolant is to expensive to let go to long. I smelled coolant but no burning.

Kyle on December 27, 2006

I have a 2000 VW jetta VR6 as well, I was driving down the highway and after I merged into traffic at 85mph my ceck engine light came on. I have checked all the fluid levels and gascap and all is well. I dont know what else it could be but I know that it will probably be expensive… What now?

craig on May 22, 2007

Just had my catalytic converter replaced and a new resinator installed on my 2000 Jetta today… The check engine light came on about 20 miles down the road and feels like the engine is misfiring and i am now having trouble getting the car into first gear. could any of this be related

Eric on May 19, 2007

2000 Jetta 1.8t AWD engine code. I’ve had a similair problem to everyone in this thread. Check engine light was on for 8 months with no noticable drivability problems. When it was time for a state inspection, I knew I had to fix it or no pass. I took it to an independent shop that works on vw’s. They told me it was a Secondary Air Inj.Sys. Malfunction (code p0410). Even though I knew my secondary air pump (SAP) was functioning because I heard it every morning, they convinced me it was bad and replaced it for about $400 total. 2days, light back on, same code. They tightened some loose hoses in the Seconary Air Inj system, reset computer. 2days, light back on. Reset the computer again using special “VW software”. Light comes on again. Replace front O2 sensor. Light back on again, same code. When someone with a brain finally fixes this, I will update this thread to let everyone know. GOOD LUCK ALL!

Jen on September 19, 2009

I don’t think VW will likely come up with that answer. I went to a customer advocate with no results. My only recourse to get their help was to leave the car with the dealership for an indefinet amount of time all at my own expense since it is out of warranty. I have already replaced over $2000 in parts with no change. Time for a lemon law suit I think.

Anon on October 23, 2009

did you return the car in 30 days ? if not the lemon law will not apply and also theres this insurane you can buy now for cars like 60 a month and they guarantee you pay nothing but a 50.00 dollar dedut i would look into that before dropping hundreds more.

Terry on January 11, 2010

Please check combo valve braided hose it maybe cracked and it’s not visible

Ed on May 26, 2010

that’s what the problem was on mine, except I didn’t pay for anything at all! I read code, I found bad hose, I was given new hose, I cleared code, and everything is fine! Don’t underestimate the power of curiosity!

LV Limbo on September 5, 2007

Volkswagen should release VIN of Jetta 2000 affected by recall. Repair/Replacement must be done for free on these affected VINs irregardless of mileage. In my case, I was hearing something unusual while driving when the mileage was less than 80,000. I just found out the catalytic converter problem when it’s worst and the mileage is 100,000+.

KATLYN on February 22, 2007

I AM HAVING EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM NICOLE GONCE HAD, MY MECHANIC CHANGED THE SENSORS, BUT THE LIGHT STILL ON. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Darren on February 26, 2007

I had a racing cam installed and now the check engine light wont turn off is their any way to fix this?

alex on March 3, 2007

I also own a 2000 Jetta that has a checklight engine on. in response to nicoles message,vw diagnosed the catlitic converter needed to be replaced,however they did not indicate vw would replace free, nicoles may I ask your source of information in regards to the part not suppose to fail

shannon on March 9, 2007

i have a 95 jetta that has had one thing after another go wrong with it the check engine light is on but no one can tell me why

debbie on April 12, 2007

I have a 2001 Jetta that always has the check engine light on. After YEARS of being a responsible owner and making sure (paying money) the equipment is properly maintained, I honestly feel that the senors readings are set at a sentitve level to go off. I have had my senors replaced multiple times and still the engine light goes off somewhere around day 3 to day 5 after the mechanic visit. My suggestion to others is that something else in the computor has shifted to create a false indication in the readings.

Tiki on May 6, 2007

Do you have the recall code of the oxygen sensor recall?

jim on May 15, 2007

2006 jetta been to dealer at least 10 times..engine light on again the dealer charging me 700 dollars to fix

Alex on June 13, 2007

I have VW jetta 1.8 2003. I brought it for diagnostics and they toled me that my temp sensor and my catalityc converter are bad. So I bought new temp sensor for like $40.00 and replased it my self, chech ingine light turned off for about 100 miles. Then I bought new cat online for $330 and brought it to lockal mufler shop. When we took converter off mechanic tolled me that there is nothing wrong with mine old one, and in fact old one was much better than afrermarket one I bought online. Well anyway chech ingine light is still on and I have to bring my car to diagnostic. But now when I stard car in morning there is some trouteling sound for about 90 seconds, and then it desapaers with something like air presure valve is being opened. Please anny Ideas????????

Anon on October 23, 2009

sonuds lkie a vackcum leark to mie

Ed on May 26, 2010

secondary air injection pump turns on when outside temp is below 50ish degrees. It helps to get catalytic converter warmed up.

Marie on June 16, 2010

My car has this exact problem when the temperature is cool outside. NOBODY can figure out the problem!! They say it could be many sensors. I know the code comes up for the oxygen sensor. Could this be the problem?? How exactly could I warm up the catalytic converter. Could you expand on that? I would like this car to last me at least two more years.

Loretta on July 6, 2007

Hey I have a 2001 Jetta V6 and I have had the same engine light problem. We I step on the gas, the engine light flashes and after a while it stops flashing. My car also seems to be missing. VW told me it was the catalytic converter and that it was not covered under warranty. At that time my car was almost at 60,000 miles. Little did I know that the catalytic convert is covered by the dealer up to 60,000 miles. By the time I realized this it was to late. This month I received 2 letters in the mail from Vw. The first one told me of a recall on my car that could case a false catalytic convert error, and the second letter offered to buyback my car. Smells fishy to me!!!!!

craig on July 10, 2007

Federal law covers your catalytic until 80,000 miles and VW covers to 100,000 miles. Make them fix it for free or refund you if you already paid…

liat segal on July 23, 2007

I have a 2003 VW Jetta with a check engine light that has been on for a solid 4 3months. It used to come on and off but now it stays on. I had a diagnostic and they said it was a coolent temp. sensory problem. Anyone knows how much it costs to fix this?

Lee on September 28, 2010

I just replaced my coolant temp sensor on my 03 jetta - ran me about $150 at the dealer

Imtiaz Haiyoom on July 28, 2007

CRAIG, could you please tell me how I can find out where it says the VW covers catalytic converters till 100,000 miles? My check engine light had been on and off for the past 10 days or so. took it into the dealership and they said i had a bad catalytic converter and charged me $700 to replace it. i wish i had founf this website before :( LORETTA, is it possible for you to share exactly what your letters said? Maybe even scan it and email it to me? would appreciate any help. I’ve been reading a lot of forums tonight after i felt VW ripped me off on my catalytic converter and it looks like tons of people are having the exact same problems and even worse. makes me want to get rid of my 2002 jetta even though this is my first major problem!

James Sense on August 5, 2007

i have a 2001 jetta the engine light is always on. it has been on constantly for several years. at inspection time my indie mechanic resets it for $40, tells me it will come back on in a couple of days and that i should ignore the light. he said the dealers program it so it will come on periodically in hopes that you will bring it to the dealer so thet can charge you tons of money. i don’t understand why anyone would take their car to the dealer unless it is warranty work.

Kenn on August 6, 2009

What your mechanic is telling you is nonsense. If your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is coming on then something needs to be repaired. Buy an OBD-II code scanner, look on-line to figure out what the code means and have it repaired - or if it’s nothing dangerous, live with the light. And get a new mechanic.

Kathleen on August 8, 2007

Hello All, I recently bought a used 2003 Jetta TDI and was loving this car … until MY Check Engine Light (CEL) came on yesterday. I noticed the temperature sensor wasn’t working and hoped it was related. Today, as I was driving to the mechanic, the temperature sensor was registering again, but the CEL stayed on. The car is at the shop now and I’m in for $166.00 just to do a diagnostic. After reading all these postings about the CEL coming on, I’m getting worried. I’ll keep you posted. Kathleen

2000 VW Jetta Check Engine Light

Comments

Post new comment

Here

Projects

Networks