2000 VW Jetta Check Engine Light

The “check engine light” in my 2000 VW Jetta has been on for almost six months. Wary of being told I need to “replace the trigenic configuration valve-pulse generator” for $950, I’ve avoided taking it in to the dealer to have it looked at. I was due for an inspection and an oil change this week, though, so I bit the bullet and made an appointment.

To my pleasant surprise there had been an “oxygen sensor recall” for the 2000 Jetta, which resulted in my getting a free brand new oxygen sensor (who knew that cars needed oxygen!) which, in turn, made the check engine light turn itself off.

There was also a recall on the “hazard light switch,” so I got a new one of those two. An interesting side-effect of that is that the “clicking sound” that my car makes when I switch on the turn signal has changed its tone (Jodi says it’s “much sharper sounding” now). It’s like a brand new car!

So total damage for inspection, a new brake light, a new oxygen sensor, a new hazard light and an oil change was only $65.

Saturday, September 3, 2005 - 4:37pm

Comments

Lisa on December 29, 2005

My check engine light has been on my 200 Vw Jetta for a couple months now. I did have it checked and they said nothing was wrong and turned off the light. About 5 miles down the road it came back on. Once in awhile the light blinks and my car seems to not get gas even though I am pushing the gas peddle. Once the light stops blinking my car SEEMS to go back to normal. What could the problem be?

F on November 11, 2009

my car seems to not get gas even though I am pushing the gas peddle” i had the same problem on my 2000 jetta vr6 the problem was spark plugs and wires.

Bigblack420 on February 1, 2011

Hey I was lookin at a 2000 jetta glx vr6 for two grand but he started it up n as he pressed the gas pedal it responded a few seconds later but he just mentioned he had the spark plugs n wires redone could tht be the problem ?

Rachel on November 13, 2009

That happened to my car too and it is the OXYGEN SENSOR just like the girl was talking about above, GET IT CHANGED FAST, the oxy sensor determines the air to gas ratio, and if the ratio is wrong the firing will be off and there will be excess chemials and gas left over that travel to the catalytic conver and will cause it to go bad eventually, that happened to me. If I had known about the recall I could have gone down and gotten it fixed for free and never have to pay the $350 dollars plus $50 for my sensor and catalytic converter. When the sensor is bad the car will go into a certain mode that will cause it to put just enough air and gas to fire, basically it’s like emergency mode to get you to the next gas station, the guy who told me about it called it skip mode, it feels like your car is skipping and lurching forward and there is almost no power because it is getting the smallest amount of gas and oxygen possible to keep the car moving. I hope this helps I have had almost any and every problem with my 00 jetta that is humanly possible. I’m putting up the for sale sign today. Hope this helps!

Jason on November 14, 2009

I have a 2000 VW jetta VR6. 95K miles. The check engine light stays on. And the ABS and traction control lights come on whenever the ABS motor fails which is often. Several mechanics have said brakes are not dangerous, quoted price to fix b/n 800 - 1400 dollars. Have put much $ in car. Temperature gauge failed this summer going up a mountain road as I was monitoring said temp gauge, car overheated and conked out, temp gauge never moved. Miles from home cost me $1900 to fix. But here’s the real kicker, finally got fed up and took it in to trade-in on a new Honda and was only offered $500 and $1000 for it at different dealerships. Blue book says I should get around 4K (and yes, that’s trade-in). Thinking I might take my chances and run it into the ground and just junk it if another major repair comes up. Might be able to get a few more months out of it which would equal the paltry $500-$1000 I’d get from the dealer. Hate this car - Big mistake buying, could be driving a Lexus with the money I’ve sank into it. Mechanic said VW worst made car on the road these days.

Ajill dewaltnonymous on June 10, 2010

I have had this happen to mine three times - 1) Maf sensor, 2) before oxygen sensor 3) BACK OXYGEN SENSOR. WITHIN A 9 MONTH PERIOD ALL THREE SENSORS WENT OUT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS STAYED ON. Each time they were replaced, it took approx. 50 miles before the engine light went out. But I was amazed - the performance to my car returned right after the light went out.

Anonymous1988 on July 12, 2010

have them check the fuel pump and lines. That happened on my 2001 vw jetta 1.8T. My car would shudder and then die. I would turn over the ignition and then it wouldnt work... two minutes later, i would do it again and it would work. Then accelerating i would be flooring it and it would almost do a full stall and then accelerate. It might take a while as it took 3 months and almost $500 to fix it, but have them check it various times. The check engine light would go on and off.

joe on July 29, 2010

Mass air flow, cleaning with crc staff, or replace it..........

Kevin on June 18, 2011

The car has a default in the computer system that when the check engine light comes on it and starts blinking the computer goes into what is called safe mode and reduces power to the engine until the light stops blinking.

Nicole Gonce on January 4, 2006

2000 VW Jetta Check Engine Light VR6 My check engine light came on and a diagnosis was done saying my Oxygen (O2) Sensor needed to be replaced. So I did I thought the problem was over. 260 Miles later it comes back on and a PO4011 code comes on. Which is a Secondary air system malfunction. My trusty mechanic says there is a problem with the piping and VW says it could be my other sensor. They turn it off with no apparent problems. Another 260 miles it comes back on. Ive heard that I might need a new gas cap or there is just a problem with the air intake. What is the problem?

Ed on May 26, 2010

I had same problem- tiny vacuum hoses are all that cause this. I replaced the hoses and it fixed the problem. There is a small black valve with 2 very small hoses over by the brake booster. I erplaced the hose that went from there to the round metal thing under the throttle body, and there is another hose on the passenger side of the engine under the plastic cover that needs replaced. It is only like 10” long and runs front to back next to aluminum intake.

John on February 14, 2006

To answer the first question, your catalytic converter is damaged and will need to be replaced. VW will provide the part off warranty no matter how many miles you have on your car because it is a part of the car that is not supposed to fail. The converter isn’t bolted as tightly as it should and can become loose with regular wear and tear. Bring your car in if you haven’t yet so you don’t end up broken down in the B.A.B.F.

Roman on August 16, 2010

I took my car in to get the cat replaced and they said I had too many miles, that it's factory recall but only if your car has under 100k miles.

Glen on May 27, 2007

My wife’s 2000 Jetta has same problems - engine light. 6 VW dealer visits in 30,000 km ($1400)- several O2 sensors and map sensors - cat converter repaced on warranty. Car runs bad and has a gas odour when light is on. Every time we take it in they charge $172 to diagnose the problem - then parts costs. Inherant problem on older Jettas and I don’t think VW will ever resolve because it would be bad for their service business. I plan on buying another Subaru and someone else can deal with greedy VW Service Dept.

ERIC on May 28, 2007

In response to my post above- 2000 Jetta, 1.8t, AWD engine code. Check Engine light computer code given - p0411. after $1000 bucks total since starting, it turns out the problem was the TURBO DIVERTER VALVE or, as VW calls it: the “overrun shut-off valve”. Please, if you have a 1.8t jetta and you get a p0411 or p0410 error code when they check the computer. make sure they check the TURBO DIVERTER VALVE and the Secondary Air Pump. The Diverter valve is a $30 part that Anyone can easily replace themselves. I hope this helps!!

Rachel on November 13, 2009

Have the same car SELL SELL SELL I’m telling you now, I’ve spent over $6,000 on repairs and its still not running right, I can’t even sell it for that much!! Save yourself time and money, mechanics will never fix it right anyways!!

Dona on May 29, 2007

2003 Jetta GL - have had problems with check engine light for the past three months - so far $1,300 - with a VW dealer, changed vacuum hose, changed out brake switch due to recall, fuel injection serviced, throttle serviced, air filter changed, basic tune-up (plugs); with another mechanic, changed out O2 sensors - still having light come on - have checked gas cap to make sure it is secure - reluctant to spend more money - RUNS FINE - any ideas?

James on June 23, 2010

The "check engine" light on my '03 1.8T Jetta came on about a year ago. The dealers said I needed a new thermostat $300 t0 $400. The car runs great. Heat is a constant 190. The water pump was replaced about 18 months ago. A friend suggested disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. This reset the light which stayed out for several months. I reset again. It came on last week just before my State emissions check. It failed with a code of P2181 (cooling system performance). I disconnected the battery cable for a few minutes. Took it back for a retest. It passed. The car runs great. I"m from the school of "if it ain't broke don't fix it. Anyone have an idea of what to try next.

Luis Gallotti on June 1, 2007

2000 Jetta GLS. I have a problem with my check engine light for the last few months. I recently changed the 02 sensor as I been told, but of course light came back on after 30 miles. I took it to the VW dealer, they charged me $100 for checking the light, and they told me misfire problems. How can I figure it out where is the real problem and fix it finally??? Naples, Florida

Anon on October 23, 2009

Take it to auto zone they will run a free diagnostic and give you a unbiased oppinion.they don’t want to fix the car to make money so they won’t tell a lie.

ashley on May 26, 2010

I bought a 2000 vw jetta VR6 used put a motor in it. The check engine light is on, when I start shifting it loses power like it bogs down sometimes I have to pull over until it gains power again. When I drive it for a while this problem is not as bad; but its still there when shifting. I have a computer it says it is misfiring on the #1 and #6 cylinders. I had a new converter and sensors put on it (bought from oreillys because advance did not carry them). Now what to do…I read someone said something about the coil. Any suggestions PLEASE!!

chris on July 14, 2010

i had the same problem with my 1.8t golf.it was misfireing out of #1 and it was because of the coil pack not being plugged in all the way.try unplugging them and then plugging them back in.thats what i did and my car runs very good now.

Mathew z on October 26, 2011

its the coil. change the coil asap. try driving a brand new stage 2 clutch and my coil goes out while i was driving cylinder 4,5,6 .. it was soo bad that the coil melted off nd my car died going up a hill. This reduces a lot of performance. so if your car idles real bad, real bad shift shut off.. its the coil. i advise u to change it so your car does not die on u like it did to me.. now i go to send the car back into the shop - jetta mk3 vr6 glx

Rachel on November 13, 2009

Misfiring is usually due to the ignition coils 2 of mine went out too, check engine light would come on and flash. Dunno why they go bad, usually spark plus are burnt after the ignition coil goes gotta get it all replaced. When the ignition coil is bad you can feel it, not enough power in the car.

Brandon on July 7, 2010

How much does it cost to get the coils replaced for the VW Jetta when the engine misfires?

Janie on September 5, 2006

I’m having the same problem with my check engine light…. First time it came on i was on the highway… I unpluged the battery it shut off then it came back on on Sat… I don’t what’s going on can some help…..

Courtland on October 12, 2010

I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 2.0L with a check engine light on. Took it to a local auto parts store and they put it on the diagnostic machine,(No Charge). Codes read that it was the Coil Pack or plugs. I changed the plugs for $9.00 each,light still on. The coil pack is Only $379.00. LOL! I was told that this part had some recalls but havn't been able to fine any reports of it. VW dealership acts like We the Consummers are Stupid and denies any recall. I dare not say I like the car or it will probally FALL apart. (LOL Again). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thx

tyson on October 12, 2010

i have a 2000 jetta the check engine light came on so i took it to auto zone they plugged in the computer and everything went goofy lights started flashing in the dash and no more start or even turn over

jean-francois on September 13, 2009

I have a 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t(110,000km(68,000mils)) while driving it overheat and the light of water temp is on, the cooling fluid was spiting out from the top of my tank but mowhere else, the hose from my motor to my radiator was soft, verry hot and almost empty. no more heat comming out of the heater in the car,and ther is a cod of misfire on cylinder 1 and 2. but new spark plug 2 weeks ago. do you think it could be my head gasket that is broken between the first and second cylinder?

Anonymous on August 14, 2009

I have a 2003 Jetta GL, the check engine light has been on for nearly a year. I took it to the dealer, they read the code that said it was running cooler than it should. They turned off the light, but the next day it came on again. Took it back, they turned it off, came on again. When it’s cold out the car missfires and shakes for a while and the light flashes, then goes back to normal (still on). I had the spark plugs replaced and no change. Seems like this is VERY common on Jettas, yet nobody is sure what it is?

Max on August 21, 2009

I have a 2005 new model Jetta. The other day I was driving and my engine light came on blinking and I felt my car shaking. I looked under the hood and saw the my whole engine was shaking. It also sounded like it wanted to die.. any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Kelli on October 24, 2009

I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX, my engine light and EPC light were both on so I took to my mechanic and after troubleshooting he told me that my EPC light was on due to a faulty brake switch, which has a recall but cost me over $200 in diagnostics. He also told me that my engine light was on because my O2 sensor was reporting that my cat converter was bad, even though the cat was not bad. he told me that my computer needed to be reprogrammed by VW because they did not program the car with wide enough ratio for the O2 sensor to think cat is bad when they made the car and that VW has the update to reprograme computer. I called VW and they want $175 to read code and $175 to reprogram. i told them that the code has already been read and i did not want to pay for that again said i just want it reprogrammed they did say that there is a update for this issue. i still have not taken car in for update. at this point, only my engine light is on, so when filling up with premium fuel, as i always use, i also added Octaine Booster. when i started the car, no engine light came on. which made sense if burning cleaner. Engine light stayed off for about 2 months / 6k miles then came on again so i added octaine booster again and again the light went off and stayed off for about the same amount of time. about the same time light came back on i started noticing a backfire when i shift from 1st to 2nd, and car was misfiring. i replaced my spark plugs and it was like driving a new car. this was about 3 months ago, and just a few days ago my engine light has come back on. i may have it reprogrammed since i just read cat warranty was extended to 120k and i have 124k. i am experiencing a new problem now as well, when i start the car sometimes, my teMp light flashes and it says “STOP” “CHECK COOLANT” “SEE SERVICE MANUAL” but then sthe light either goes off or if i shut off car and start again it does not happen. the car does not overheat nor does this hmp senappen while im driving the car. i recenlty also had to pay $700+ to have water pipe (a.k.a. crack pipe), temp sensor and housing replaced. anyone know what this problem could be? dont think its related to check engine light cause that alwasys says emissions workshop.

Leigh-Anne on November 19, 2009

I bought a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLS 2.0L, this is my second one.I bought it with 30,000 miles on it so I figured nothing would be wrong with it. I should of known how many problems I was going to have after the first one was a lemon and had to be returned. And Volkswagen could not figure out the problem until the last minute. Anyways, Every two years I smog my car, and always when it is time to smog my check engine light turns on. I have had my rear brakes replaced, my sunroof replaced( after it shattered on my head while driving, Can someone explain that one?), water pumped replaced after overheating, had the sensor replaced for the brake lights when it was recalled also. Within the past few months, my car has been acting worse and worse. The car will shut off and die at a lights. It lurches and feels like it wants to accelatrate, but having difficult doing so. Or it feels like it just wants to die. Could the lurching be from the converter or sensors?? Check engine light went on a few weeks before registeration was due, I had it looked at & the code read 420, which is the O2 sensor or Catalyic converter. I have yet to bring it into volkswagen. The repair shop I took it to wanted to charge me over $1,000 to replace the cat. But I found affordable catalyic converters online, for $400. I am so hestitant what I should do? I did not buy the car at Volkswagen, my warranty has been up since 75,000 miles. The car is only six or seven years old…this things should not be happening especially the coverter. I was reading a forum & I read that Volkswagen is honoring an extended warranty on Catalyic converter, and would replace for free if was 10yrs or 120,000 miles. Is this true? I would love to know, because I want to fix my volkswagen and pass smog as soon as possible & then Sell it!

Gene on December 2, 2009

My 2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI CEL has been on for years, dealership said drive it till the car quit. Have developed the sidewise spring dash light blinking. Doesn’t do this everytime I run it, but is becoming more freq. What does it mean?

smartelephant on December 4, 2009

I have a 2003 2.0 Jetta that I’ve had for about four years. The engine light came on a week ago. The car runs fine. I’ve checked the oil and other fluids. It has 56,000 miles on it. Is there a problem or does the engine light come on whenever. Maybe it’s an insidious plot to take your car in for unneeded repairs?

Amber on December 20, 2009

Heyy i have a 2002 jetta and alot of the stuff ive been reading is starting to scare me. my engine lights been on for about two months now. ive had my spark plugs, wires and manifold gasket replaced. and it still continues to shake. it also seems like its not accelerating as fast as it should. this occurs when the engine light s blinking. i just had my coolant sensor replaced and its still happening! i need some help! PLEASEE

jetta03guy on April 13, 2010

Schuks and stores like it give you the little computer thing and you hook it to your car and it gives you the code number for what the engine light is about. It’s free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tess on May 26, 2010

I have a 2000 Jetta glx 2.8 vr6, all of a sudden when i’m driving the epc light, the anti-slip regulation and usually the check engine light will come one, and i will loose control over acceleration. i.e. it has no response when i press the gas pedal. Right before this happens the car seems to jerk and the rpm goes up and down without me doing anything. Usually i’ll turn off the car and it will be fine for a while before it does it again. It doesn’t seem to have any real consistency on when it does it i can go for a few days without it occurring and then it continually does it for awhile. In addition to this, when i turn it on again the check engine light stays on ( but not always) and will usually be on for a bout half a day till it disappears. I have new spark plugs and wires, I believe the break light sensor was replaced awhile ago and i’m looking into replacing the pcv valve in hopes that this might also help. When I took it in they said there were 8 stored DTC’s 1. P0420- catalyst efficiency below threshold, B1 2. P0140- 02 sensor B1S2, no activity 3. P0411- secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. 4. P0113- IAT sensor signal too high 5. P0300- Random multiple misfire 6. P0301- cylinder #1 misfire 7. P1545- throttle valve controller malfunction 8. P1142- load calculation cross check… Any suggestions? tess.meyer@colorado.edu

Tess on May 26, 2010

I have a 2000 Jetta glx, all of a sudden when i’m driving the epc light, the anti-slip regulation and usually the check engine light will come one, and i will loose control over acceleration. i.e. it has no response when i press the gas pedal. Right before this happens the car seems to jerk and the rpm goes up and down without me doing anything. Usually i’ll turn off the car and it will be fine for a while before it does it again. It doesn’t seem to have any real consistency on when it does it i can go for a few days without it occurring and then it continually does it for awhile. In addition to this, when i turn it on again the check engine light stays on ( but not always) and will usually be on for a bout half a day till it disappears. I have new spark plugs and wires, I believe the break light sensor was replaced awhile ago and i’m looking into replacing the pcv valve in hopes that this might also help. When I took it in they said there were 8 stored DTC’s 1. P0420- catalyst efficiency below threshold, B1 2. P0140- 02 sensor B1S2, no activity 3. P0411- secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. 4. P0113- IAT sensor signal too high 5. P0300- Random multiple misfire 6. P0301- cylinder #1 misfire 7. P1545- throttle valve controller malfunction 8. P1142- load calculation cross check… tess.meyer@colorado.edu Any suggestions?

Evelyn on June 8, 2010

EPC constantly coming on at low speeds, CEL comes on occassionally, fan is starting to come on long after car is shut off, engine block is still very warm after being shut off for over an hour. Had numerous checks done for problem codes, had lots of parts replaced. Nothing has fixed the problems with the EPC or CEL. Besides using this car for fire department practise auto fire, what would be somebody's suggestion? We have spent over $3000 dollars last year alone, it is a 1991 2.8L engine, GLS Jetta.

Thank you to anybody who can help

Catia on June 17, 2010

My check engine light its been on after a year I bought the car.... I have the car for 9 1/2 years and spend about $2000.00 and still stuck with the same problem. 2000 Jetta suck!!!

Canadian girl on June 21, 2010

Shoulda bought a golf! I have a 2000 VW Golf TDI. I just turned over 320,000 kms. Recently put in a new clutch and yes the regular maintenance can be a bit costly but the money I save in fuel has more than paid for that. I put on 1000 km per week and it only costme me $40 or less. By the sounds of all your comments, I don't think I will but a new VW. Too many problems with the newer ones. I'll drive this one until it stops.

problem on July 7, 2010

I have a 2000 VR6 my brakes all the way down. they thought it was the master cylinder, but it was not the breake booster air line was broken and replaced but is still doing the same thing. any suggestions on what it might be?

billVWSUCKS!! on July 10, 2010

everyone!, do not go to VW to change anything, a friend of mine has a '00 jetta and used to go to VW all the time, everytime he went there he would get different codes (the most common one was P0172), and when he went to another mechanic shop, it turns out that VW would input codes to his computer, if you are going to fix your jetta's DO NOT GO TO VW, all they will do is input codes related to the real problem and take all your money. my friend had to pay over 30 hundred dollars for everyproblem his car had. my advice: get another car, my friend traded his car at carmax for a honda civic, which is the best choice he ever made in his life!

diddlywiddly on July 16, 2010

hey folks, if your jetta is shuddering, like its not getting gas, its the ignition coil. The little bugger cracks and gets wet inside, the car misfires and spits out a ton of gas into the exhaust. im in the process of replacing mine. 185 bucks. You will notice the shuddering morso in the rain or when the car sits for a day or two. humidity will make it much worse. The light will blink until the engine manages to warm up to op. temperature, then it may work, or it may shudder more when yo step on the gas, either way, its gotta be replaced. I tried everything from marine epoxy to urethane paint to try and seal the craks in mine. no go.

Becky Boo on July 26, 2010

I am the only owner of my 2005 Jetta. I had ZERO problems until this past year with my car. Last July (2009) the power windows in the front stopped working. Of course in the rain. Then I got them to go up and had to avoid all bank and fastfood drive threws until the first freeze when the driver side miraculously began working again... Windows are not a priority because I also needed new tires. Then new breaks. Then a new master hydraulic break cylinder. NOW my emissions light is flashing and my car only starts every other time for the last 4 days, runnign very rough, threatening to stall at every red light and stop sign and lurching forward and back in the process. Also, everytime the breaks went bad or the oil light comes on or now this light, a brake light or parking light shorts out! I now have a rental car for at least a week, who knows how much longer while I wait to get it into one of the only guys around who works on VWs in my area---because they are so backed up with VWs to repair !!! One thing I do kow if I just found out that my oil change place has been accidentally using regular oil instead of synthetic oil for the last two oil changes---any advice pr words of wisdom?

joe on July 29, 2010

The vw was been done for 10 years ( recycle thing) , after that all plastics staring to deteorate, for another words, it need a lot money to keep runing. So, a big mistake buy a vw.......

joe on August 2, 2010

Basicaly, light cming on, because too much air( poor mix). This happen because pcv valve bread more with age and miles of car, the canistry getting old give much more air to manifold( wich stay on soon litle above of idle), the brake with older give more air to manifold, too. Now we have another problem : above idle and under the maxim the EGR valve works em that area, wich make more poor the mix, specially getting old .........to fix a cel need work on entry excessive air on manifold...........
other point: MAF. The vw are manufactured for 10 years after that all plastics star decompose ( any plastic touched plastric broke) even with fuel lines (wich had been recall for that matter), so, for another words the flexiveis attach to exaut manifold star liquing, this smoke stabe the maf (so the problem on maf, is not bosch, but vw for impropery place to catche hot air feed the engine mix) solution of maf, clean with crc staf and disconet the tube coming of exaut maifold, that,s the end of maf problem. keep in mine never use electronic devices on smoke area ( even the smoke in houses must be repalce wittin five years because the possivle expousure to th smoke.......
to the engine run allways smood, use allways a single spark, the multilple sparks soon get some miles never let the engine run smood..........

joe on August 3, 2010

Fininsh , the ox sensor come to work on scale 1 t0 10, and set by factory to work 4 t0 6, but with time so many air go to intake passing out of control of maf, the sensor star raise to apropiate too much air outside of control of maf, soon star reach 10 and the light go on, by the time the never get bellow 10, that means never more go of.
On the outher cars, they came with device wich dealer can set the ox sensor back to scale 4 to 6,in creasing the mix on maf given rom to sensor so they never give to much trouble with cel…….vw forget, looks lately vw had been made by ignorants, who just want make money on reputation get the older cars, and lie of costumer………so never by vw or audi……..is the same……….
Note Welll: when unpluged ox sensor, de computer of car give valium 10, so the engine will be on maxim of consum possivel on that stage of engine, for show if the ligth cel is on before disconet the ox sensor, nothing happen, the engine ready on high mix possivle..I the driveres of vw catch these ideas never get major problems with vw.......wich suppost a job of vw factory............

joe

LilD on August 7, 2010

I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0 with 132,000 miles on it. I've had sooooo many problems with this car. Never ever in a million years would I buy another VW. I've replaced endless coolant related parts. It seems as though after over $2,000 that problem is "fixed". Now I'm having a whole new variety of issues. I went to get my fancy high mileage oil change the other day. I was being super responsible and even took care of it ahead of schedule because I've heard Jettas really suck up oil. AS SOON as I drove off the lot post oil change my car started shaking. I turned around and drove back to the oil change place and gave the manager a piece of my mind. He started it, opened the hood and checked things, then told me that they did everything right and well it wasn't shaking now. So I left and drove to work. It was driving mostly normal and the shaking stopped. My friend later said that maybe something got knocked and the computer readjusted when the car was turned off and then on again. So a couple days later my check engine light goes on (it's still on). Still the car seems like it's running alright. Now in the past few days I notice that when I'm driving the fumes are so bad that I need to drive with the windows down and if I'm sitting in traffic I feel like passing out. Then the other day I tried to drive it to work and I went about a block. The fumes were extra bad AND it when I gave it a little gas it wouldn't go and then it would almost blast off...Oh and it's also leaking power steering fluid. I've spent soooo much money on this car and I unfortunately still owe $ on it. I am all set to buy a new car (NOT A VW) in about 8 weeks but I REALLY need it to last for at least that much longer. Is there any chance that it's just the O2 sensor that was recalled? (Power steering fluid looks to be a slow leak and just started)

Richard on August 14, 2010

Hi I have a 2000 vw jetta GLS 2.0 with 82,000 miles my transmission went out I got it fixed and now the cars check engine light came on the code it gives is to have the throttle body readapted. So I took it to the dealership they checked it and said that it was the wire harness going to the throttle body I paid $800 to have them replace it they also said that the computer was fine. Well they replaced it and it is still the same now they say that maybe it is the computer ($2000 for parts). What do you guys think should I try or just use it till it finally dies? The car runs it just idles weird.

harold beaulieu on September 20, 2010

1998 volkswagon jetta, wolfsburg,
check engine light does not come on at all, even when all others light up before start.
any suggestions?

Lauren on October 7, 2010

Hi, I have a 2000 Jetta GLS, I bought it about 3 weeks ago from a lot specializing in VW's. A week after I drove off the lot the temp sensor came on - it comes on almost every time I start my car and stays on for a minute or two. Does anyone know what this could be ? I don't have the money right to take it in to the dealership.
Does anyone know how I can find out if my car has a recalled sensor? I saw that VW sent out recalled VIN numbers, where can I find them? And is my car still safe with 260k's on it?
Also, for those people with check engine light problems - When VW's have any work done to them, your car has a memory, and the light will stay on for a few days afterwards. I was told to drive my car for 5 days - and if the light stays on after that to bring it in to be checked, and on the fifth day the check engine light shut off - and has been off since.
Thanks !

tim on November 14, 2010

I was having engine power issues and after reading some of the probs. other people have been having i went and checked all my hoses and vaccum lines. turns out it was a $2.73 vaccum line and now it has all the power back. the check engine light is still on. the diagnostics said i need a new cam scensor and cylinder 6 misfire.. i was told it would only need plugs and wires. should i replace the ignition coil at same time even tho I was told that it is fine?

David E on December 14, 2010

I have a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0. Just purchased it last week. I have noticed a pretty strange occurrance, after driving for an hour or so I have noticed the engine temp actually drop down below normal, to the point that the heat actually blows cold! I have been told that it could be a thermostat or a water pump issue. Any other suggestions? I live in Minnesota so having constant heat in the car is a good thing!

MP on December 15, 2010

I’ve got a 2000 VW Jetta GLS my check engine light came on. When I had it checked I got this code P1255 DTC Definition Not Found. What does this mean and what can be causing this problem?

Alex on February 9, 2011

Great news! I would still have the car scanned for codes just to make sure that was the only problem with the vehicle. Always better to be safe than sorry. Check Engine Light Codes

ibiggestlozer on February 21, 2011

Okay well I haven’t read most of the posts. But I did read the original question. If it flashes that is the Catalytic Converter. The manual says it will do that if its the converter, but my car was also diagnosed with that problem.

ibiggestlozer on February 21, 2011

alex on March 13, 2011

I get around problems with the check engine light by doing all my own repairs. I download repair manuals online and save myself thousands.

Sam on March 16, 2011

oh i had the same problems with car headaches when my abs light went on. So frustrating, glad it all worked out.

marcos on March 17, 2011

this car belong to the junk yard if you have one i hope you sell it sap i had one VW Jetta 1.8t i had to replace the turbo which it was at the dealer 1.500 i got it at eBay for 300 2 oxygen sensors 300 150 a piece catalytic converter 300.00 3 time the thermostat 55.00 water pump 150.00 + timing belt 39.25 head light the connector burn n melt 150.00 a piece the coils where free because the dealer recall for them but does where replace 2 and even then the check engine still on my luck my brother is a mechanic and I was able to fix it a his shop but It would been 1.000s of dollars take my advise buy your self a Honda or Subaru this car are low maintenance if u want one the parts are chip go for the Honda if u want a better quality but your welling to pay a bit more for part go whit Subaru u wont regret this cars like vw by the way Audi is the same crap

Mark on March 29, 2011

Hey all. I have been reading about the CEL for the MK4 generation of Jetta and I my parents had the same problem. I own the car now, but at the time, they had the O2 sensors replaced and the CEL came back on while I was driving it. My dad took it back and mentioned he heard a hissing sound coming fromt eh gas cap when it was parked in the garage and the mechanic took notice and suggested to change the gas cap. We did that and put a non-OEM gas cap on and the light went out and now it’s been CEL free for at least 3 years. I am hoping it is not as simple as this, but I wanted to give you all a heads up. Cheers

ivy on April 23, 2011

The check engine light came on today when I was driving in the high way. I am a quite new driver and this freak me out…. I thought it might be the oil, because I haven’t changed the oil for some time. After changing the oil. The light is still on…. Besides this, everything seems fine. No smells, and no blinks. I just had my car fixed and checked one month ago. In two weeks, I am going to drive from Ohio to Maryland for nearly 7 hours. Is it safe to drive this car for such a long trip?

iDreamofJenie on May 2, 2011

I have had every single problem that I have read about on this post, I have easily put $10,000 in repairs in to my 2002 Jetta GL and am tired of jumping out of my skin every time my gas light comes on! I used to hear that sound so much when it overheated and everything else that has failed and now I literally jump. I carry 4 extra quarts of oil with me because I’m in California and there’s lots of hills and canyons, and now my check engine light is on and it struggled to accelerate and the rpms wouldn’t adjust on my automatic. I had Pep Boys read the code and it said it was an ignition coil, has anyone had this problem and how much does it cost to have done?

SB on May 18, 2011

I realize this is an old blog but thought I might try to resurrect it. My 2003 Jetta wagon 2.0 Liter automatic has been mis-behaving lately. It started a few months ago with difficult starts after a short run like after filling at the gas station. I don’t overfill it so I don’t think it’s related to the evaporative emissions charcoal filter being saturated. This morning when I started it it ran on 2 or 3 cylinders so I limped into my garage and sprayed the high voltage spark plug wires and coil with water displacer 40 (WD40) I was able to start it after 5 minutes. It’s running much better so far but I too have had a coolant temperature sensor or circuit fault code set for several months. I’ve cleared it several times but it comes back in a few minutes to a few hours. Just a thought, Last summer I had the plastic water pump impellar self destruct. I went to my local VW parts counter where I proceeded to pick the brain of the chap. (the young guys like to prove they know lots to older guys so he was willing to spill some pertinent info) The plastic impellers are known for this and the replacement pump now has an aluminum impellar. Replacing the pump is not for the faint of heart and it is driven directly off the timing belt. It’s a really good idea to replace or have it replaced by a competent mechanic before and at each 100,000 Km. This engine, I’ve been told, is not a free wheeeling engine. In other words, some of the valves will be left stranded in the open or partially open position when the belt slips or breaks, resulting in piston to valves smashing into each other. You would need a major rebuild after such a catastrophe. So my thought is that when I had the pump replaced, air may have become trapped in the cooling system as well as chunks of plastic. First of all, the plastic could keep the thermostat from closing if a piece became lodged in it. Second, and this applies to many modern vehicles, with air trapped in the system, localized hot spots and incorrect sensor readings may be the result. The plumbing system on many vehicles will not naturally vent all of the air out when it is refilled after maintenance. I learned this when I owned several old 240 series Volvos. Whith the engine cold and no pressure in the cooling system, one old time Volvo mechanic opened the coolant expansion tank and proceeded to rev the engine at a high rpm. The amount of large air bubbles that came gurgling out of that expansion tank was amazing! I just ordered the Bentley Repair manual so I will check out the re-fill procedure if it has one. Anyone else have any thoughts on these topics? I really like the car and was hoping to keep it for another 195,000 Km. Thanks

SB on June 2, 2011

VW 2.0 litre Jetta (gasoline powered) I posted a reply which became lodged near an older comment near the bottom of page one, so now I see that I should have just posted a new comment. Thanks to the brainchild of RUK for putting Waterdown On. on the WW cyber map! (I’m currently near there) On to my recent adventure in repairing my sickly 2.0 Jetta: My coolant temperature sensor has not come back on since I topped up the expanion, and also properly called a cushion tank. The code I had two weeks ago was an oxygen sensor heater circuit low voltage, although I don’t remember which sensor it was, I think it may have been both, but not at the same time. I received the heavy Bentley shop manual and began to devour it this week. A light bulb went off in my head while studying the pictorial diagram for the fuel system! Both oxygen sensors receive their heater voltage from the fuel pump relay. My thoughts were that the car lacked power and didn’t seem to be getting enough fuel, so maybe the fuel filter was becoming clogged? I read in the manual that the gasoline models are equipped with a filter that should last the life of the car. I’m not sure how many kilow-meters they think that is. (and I realize km is not a hyphenated word and does not have a W but since so many people say it wrong I thought I may as well start spelling it wrong) I went to my VW dealer and bought a new relay and also the short piece of vacuum hose that connects the intake manifold vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator. (note that the regulator is located near the top of the engine and the relay is under the dashboard, near the steering column) The car runs much better. I can climb hills again!

MIKE on June 21, 2011

One year ago I bought a 2000 Jetta GLS with 146,000KMS (10 years old). It had a solid body and clean interior. I was impressed by the LOW KM’S, style and layout- just as I was when I purchased my ‘79, ‘86 and ‘92 VW’s when they were 10 years old. I also expected all of the quirks and minor inconveniences that I had simply “put up with” from those model years (like any car). What I did not expect in the 2000 model year was- EXACTLY THE SAME MECHANICAL PROBLEMS observed from the three model years mentioned above….ONLY 30 YEARS LATER, AND 1000 TIMES WORSE! For this model year and beyond, it seems as though there are extra surprises…. The advent of electronic controlls, coupled with the outsourcing of manufacturing to Mexico and China (for parts), have apparently been too much for the “excellent” GERMAN ENGINEERING that we have all come to “know” and love. Absolutely everything that could go wrong with my 2000 Jetta, HAS GONE WRONG! My question is- how can VOLKSWAGEN possibly, as an internationally recognised car company, go more than 30 years WITHOUT improving their engineering or manufacturing processes….. AND ACTUALLY DEGRADE THEM and still be a reputable business? I have just read more than 10 years worth of VW complaints, on various blogs,and EVERYONES STORY IS THE SAME- broken and unsafe interior and exterior parts, mechanical breakdowns (at low KMS), constant inexplicable elctronic problems and so on. I can’t believe there have NOT been class action lawsuits against this (now) deplorable company. People are still talking TEN YEARS LATER! Nevermind the model years after 2000…. My most recent car before this was a 2002 Ford Escort which never let me down. I just drove it to the scrap yard a few months ago with 396,000 KMS (246,000 Miles)and it was still in better mechanical shape than this VW PIECE OF SHIT- and less than half the milage! From what I hear, later models are not much better. Volkswagen OWES millions of unfortunate customers as far as I am concerned!

Q on July 3, 2011

BEFORE YOU GO TO YOUR DEALERSHIP .. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS check the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic & Safety Administration at www.NHTSA.gov)_WEBSITE FOR CONSUMER COMPLAINTS, SERVICE BULLETINS and RECALLS. Often, when a problem has reached critical mass—as in the volume of vw owners who experience it—BUT it does not represent a SAFETY HAZARD— a recall is not required but a SERVICE BULLETIN is sent out to all dealerships from VW headquarters, as required by NHTSA. GO ARMED WITH a COPY OF THE BULLETIN .. if the dealer you go to stonewalls—and insists you pay—GO TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP. Sadly, many dealers are not service oriented, but some still are. I drive over an hour to one out of state, because they ALWAYS ALWAYS do the right thing (Manchester VT USA). Even to the point of the girl in service offering to pay out of her own pocket because she felt it was the department’s fault. (Fortunately it turned out to be covered by the warranty-but I felt bad that she was going to pay the whole thing so I offered to split it!). I had similar issue w/my Subaru. One dealer screwed me big time, another went above and beyond. ALL the issues VW owners have (AIRBAGS BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES COIL PACKS ECM LIGHT ENGINE LIGHT CHILD SEAT LATCH SUN ROOF LEAKS) you name it.. they’re all there. The dealers KNOW the problem exists, and they HOPE you don’t know you’re one of thousands. GO ARMED w/INSIDE INFORMATION and FILE YOUR COMPLAINT ON NHTSA!!! (if you can—although it doesn’t ask whether you’re in the USA) DOING THIS ONE THING IS HOW RECALLS HAPPEN!! (AND helps you get VW to pay for the repairs). Thanks and I apologize for all the uppercase—went a little crazy there but VW quality has seriously degraded over the last decade. Sadly, it appears to only get worse. I love my VW — have had 4… and maybe there won’t be a fifth.

Jeremy on July 7, 2011

3 words-Buy a Honda. I have a 2000 1.8t, from the sounds of the posts it seems she is about to bite the dust. On a good note, it does have 130k and was purchased used with about 30k. Although I am very displeased with build quality, components, service, and part expense; I have been fortunate in that I have only made one major repair (mass air flow). I am experiencing some of the same symptoms as others at this point though. I thought I would share some of the things I have learned in my quest to avoid the stealership over the last 8 years. I used to get the coolant light, It is MANDATORY that you use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water- otherwise it will over heat. I also found that I could not use conventional 10w-30(I live in Tennessee) motor oil. Don’t know if this was only associated with the turbo, but my car would burn up conventional oil. I started it on synthetic and broke my cardinal rule because my wife was driving 2000 miles/month and I was tired of changing it. The oil light was constantly yet randomly coming on and sqwauking at us. I switched back to synthetic oil and it hasn’t come on since. I do have to run 93 octane, or I do get a CEL, also stay away from cheap gas, use Shell or Exxon or something. I realize you SHOULDN’T have to, but you do because the car is sub-par. I’ll happily pay that $3.00 if it keeps me away from VW. I have taken my car to VW twice, once to bring it in for the brake light switch recall and another 50 miles later to have the car scanned for the new CEL I had, only be be told I had to pay for it as they did nothing wrong. &$%# you buddy, you wont see me again unless it is dropping nails underneath the tires of all the cars you have for sale, or maybe practicing with my 3W from across the street. The code was for the secondary air. Auto zone reset it and it went off for a while. Then back on an one day when Im driving down the road it runs about 5 minutes and then starts losing power and dies. Wont restart until it cools off. Does this several times. Weird. Didn’t even scan it, parked it and bought an Accord. I was also experiencing the gas smell when idling at a stoplight. It has been sitting in my driveway for a year now and I jump it off tonight and low and behold it starts up, I drive it about 30 miles and never shuts off. Go figure again. Maybe it was tired and needed a break. Or maybe just some competition from the Accord. I am expecting the yellow light of death back on in about 20 more miles. And then sputtering and dying again.I’ve rambled, but I wanted to point out the oil and coolant quirks I had. I also did o2’s but somewhat expect that with 130k. I did want to ask if anyone knew what causes the gas smell when sitting at a light? I notice if you turn the a/c re-circulation button off it stops.Is it related to the secondary air, or maybe the coil pack issues? I plan to put a coil pack in it(cheapest I can find) and change the vacuum tubes on the secondary air. I refuse to pour a bunch of money into it. I have been very lucky compared to some and will cash out while I am ahead. I have never met such an arrogant group as the employees at my local dealer. I feel for anyone who has to deal with them.Especially considering that they seem to jack more up than they fix. Pretty bad for a bunch of specialists who feel they are worth premium rates, and arrogant on top of that. Good luck to everyone in their repairs. VW missed the mark on these cars. They are definitely lemons. I just got somewhat lucky. I say that, but I also have a 95 Jeep Cherokee with 180K that I’ve put a fuel filter, a coolant outlet, and a set of windsheild wiper blades on in the last 5 or 6 years. Total cost of repairs=maybe $50. Total time performing repairs=maybe an hour.

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